"This is where the emotions are happening," Porto said. "People work or live there, and they come here to have fun."
That kind of natural joy is on display at Clube dos Democraticos, an old ballroom with fading touches of grandeur and a spirit that is very much flourishing.
Its Wednesday night forro party is doubtless one of Lapa's most popular events. The rustic accordion-driven genre originating in Brazil's northeast may seem a tad folksy for a city hooked on glamour, but the Cariocas transforming the classy dance hall into a sweaty pit seize on its sensuality.
Languid and tanned, they begin dancing even while waiting in line, shimmying up the grand staircase, and clasping each other the moment they step onto the tiled floor.
"It can scare the upper class that Lapa is a totally democratic place that brings together a mix of classes," said Porto.
Froes cited a study commissioned by Novo Rio Antigo that found a tremendous socioeconomic diversity in Lapa's nighttime population. Upscale institutions like the air-conditioned, loft-like Estrela da Lapa may charge a cover that ensures a more moneyed crowd, but Lapa's energy crackles in the streets as much as within walls.
There are the spontaneous street parties near the Arcos, the crush of bodies hypnotized by the music. There are the circles of listeners from all walks of life, gustily singing along with every word, so engrossed that they barely notice the still rare but increasing presence of foreigners. Self-consciousness is irrelevant. In this moment, these streets welcome all.
On the Net: www.barcariocadagema.com.br; www.rioscenarium.com.br, www.estreladalapa.com.br; www.centroculturalcarioca.com.br
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