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Lingerie: One of life's bare necessities

By Jules Quartly
STAFF REPORTER
Thursday, Sep 28, 2006, Page 13

Models present this season's collection of lingerie from France, at Sogo department store in Taipei. PHOTOS: JULES QUARTLY, TAIPEI TIMES

The “power of seduction” was waning after watching dozens of models strutting down the catwalk wearing next to nothing for a couple of hours.

There’s only so much lace, leopard print and see-through body stocking a man can take and even the managing director of the French Federation of Lingerie and Swimwear looked exhausted at the end.

Patrice Argain is responsible for importing much of Taiwan’s high-end decorative underwear that was being shown off last week at Sogo’s Zhongxiao East Road department store in Taipei.

The latest in lingerie, Argain said, was represented by the 15 French companies that were displaying their collections.

“There are different trends but the most obvious difference this year is pieces are more sophisticated, there is more detail in the lace and prints. Women are looking for more,” he told the Taipei Times before the fashion show started.

Less is more

In an industry where less is usually more, more on this occasion meant crystal accessories dangling from diamante belts, frilly hems, pink bows attached to shoulder straps and stitched rose motifs in transparent lycra.

A leaf-green panties-and-bra ensemble was hemmed with purple lace and set off by high-thigh fishnet stockings; a leopard skin bra was updated with a layer of see-through lace that revealed nipples; a royal blue satin camisole was given the Jean-Paul Gaultier dominatrix look with the addition of black piping and garters.

Thongs inside transparent panties, with the label clearly visible, and fabric-less hoop skirts accentuated the frippery.

It wasn’t really kinky, more suggestive, but close enough to the comfort zone of most women looking for “something special” to titillate the man, or men, in her life.

There were plenty of stifled, slightly embarrassed laughs from potential clients at the show, which was a sign the limits of decorum had been tested.

It also, presumably, indicated the “power of seduction” that Argain alluded to at the start of the show when he introduced the collections.

Of course, the image of seductiveness has changed over the years. In Europe lingerie has largely been acceptable (“naughty but nice”) since the continent’s rich women first started going to France for their corsetry in the 19th century.

The US was, until recently, more conservative. But, after Madonna started performing in bras and bustiers, corsets, stockings and suspenders, underwear came out of the closet.

When the US, Ohio-based company Victoria’s Secret began selling direct in the late 1990s, using prominent models, lingerie became just another fashion item, albeit a profitable one.

The company had sales of US$2.4 billion last year and now advertises during the Super Bowl, showing just how acceptable intimate apparel has become in middle America.

“Looking at culture makes it easier to explain our product. In the States it used to be ‘one, two, three,’” Argain said, snapping his fingers. “Comfort, comfort, comfort were the important things. Since Victoria’s Secret the market has changed and evolved into something more exciting and sexy.”

Are you being served?

“The Taiwanese market is interesting as many people here have purchasing power. But this year sales have been comparatively slow. The banks have credit card related problems and the political situation is complicated.”

Are sales of underwear an indicator of economic performance?

“Our product is mid-range rather than high end so we are not usually the first people hit by a downturn, but if we are affected then it could be there are deeper troubles. This is the first time in five years we have not had double-digit growth.”

“Our big question for Taiwan is whether to do discount promotions, maybe twice a year. We never used to do this,” Argain said.

Asked why France is still the world’s center for fashion and lingerie, Argain said there were “sound historical reasons.”

“We have a long tradition of success in this. Originally we produced all kinds of fabrics, such as Calais lace. Then we developed great creativity, with patterns and colors. Now, we have factories and fabrics from around the world so we emphasize marketing.”

Claire Camdessus, a commercial attache at the French Institute in Taipei, added that the government also supports the fashion industry, starting from school. “It’s a tradition and we look after it,” she said.

Commenting on the local market, Camdessus said many locals are addicted to fashion labels.

“The rich customers are brand-driven, but actually I like the Taiwanese style, which is always colorful, clever and quite elaborate. Women here have a nice touch,” she said.

“After the show, on the fifth floor at Sogo, a clerk named Zhang (張) said she had been working in the store’s underwear department for 10 years.”

“There have been changes in that time,” she said. “For work, of course, comfort and a nice feeling against the skin is most important. But in different situations women now are more experimental. Men are also more likely to buy lingerie. They never did before.”

There’s a lot to say about a piece of lingerie, Argain said, even if there isn’t much to it.

“For instance, did you know that a French bra is built from 30 different pieces, has, on average, 15 sizes and five cup sizes. This means it’s incredibly difficult to make.”

It also partially explains why French brands charge around NT$3,000 for a set of bra and knickers and over NT$1,000 for a thong, which is essentially a glorified piece of string.

Even so, a woman surnamed Lin (林) said paying for decent intimate apparel was worth it. “There’s a huge difference between a good thong and a bad thong, especially if you have to wear it all day.”
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