When John Pomfret arrived in China in 1980, ready to begin language classes at the University of Nanjing, he looked out the train window at a timeless pastoral scene in the fields outside Shenzhen. “I saw men steering wooden plows pulled by water buffalo, women hunkered over knee-deep in rice paddy water, and travelers tottering on clunky black bicycles along dirt paths,” he writes. “This was a view of rural China that I would come to know well.”
In 2004, after multiple stints as a foreign correspondent in China, he returned to his starting point, Shenzhen, to find that the loose collection of villages now bristled with skyscrapers, and its citizens — go-getters from the four corners of China — barked into cell phones, hailed taxis, wore business suits and single-mindedly chased after the new Chinese dream of riches and material possessions.
This improbable journey, from Maoist orthodoxy to the entrepreneurial quasi-capitalism officially described as “socialism with Chinese characteristics,” is the main theme of Chinese Lessons, but Pomfret, a reporter for The Washington Post, gives his tale a twist. He tells it not only through his own experiences as a student and journalist but through the life stories of five university classmates, who suffered through the Cultural Revolution as children, found inspiration and hope in the growing democracy movement and lived to see a China that neither they nor their parents could have imagined. This added narrative layer lends depth and poignancy to what would otherwise be an informative but fairly standard end-of-tour report filed by a skilled foreign correspondent.
All the lives Pomfret explores are extraordinary, and each sheds its own light on recent Chinese history. Perhaps the most endearing of his characters is Guan Yongxing, better known as Little Guan, who as an 11-year-old suffered social ostracism after accidentally using a piece of paper with “Long Live Chairman Mao!” on it to wipe herself in the bathroom.
After classmates threw her to the ground, no doctor would treat her dislocated shoulder, leaving her crippled for life. Her father's job as a schoolteacher made the Guan family a prime target for abuse, and Little Guan, rather than endure ridicule and torment at school, picked cotton and sprayed fertilizer on the fields, her back constantly burned by chemicals leaking from the tank. Tough, determined and highly intelligent, she survives and eventually prospers in the new China.
Many of Pomfret's classmates have similar stories to tell. The parents of Old Wu, a careworn man much younger than the name implies, were dragged through the streets of Nanjing and beaten to death, but not before their sons were forced to denounce them. Prominent educators, they easily qualified as class enemies under the new rules of the Cultural Revolution.
Zhou Lianchun, called Book Idiot Zhou by a contemptuous Communist Party official, meted out insults and torture as part of a Red Guard brigade. “I did what I was told and, being 11, I liked it,” he tells Pomfret.
There is an emblematic villain too, Big Bluffer Ye, an oily operator who excels at cheating his fellow students out of money at cards. With consummate skill he works the levers of the party, adjusts to each twist and turn in the official line and ends up a powerful local official, riding high, in a chauffeured car, when the get-rich ethos sweeps over China.