NO TICKET? Stiftsplatz and Barbarossastrasse Square will have viewing parties with a giant screen and laser shows.
BARS: Most bars are attached to hotels, though the Irish House in the city's old center (Eselsfuerth 11; 49-631-406-80;www.irishhouse.de) is likely to be host to a lot of Australians on June 12.
MUNICH
Munich has come a long way in shedding its stodgy, hard-drinking image. The city, the safe, green and wealthy capital of Bavaria, is now ranked by Germans as the most desirable place to live, a standing reinforced by the new, doughnut-shaped Allianz Arena -- perhaps the World Cup's most-talked about piece of architecture.
GAMES: The 2006 World Cup kicks off in Munich with Germany vs. Costa Rica on June 9. One of the least tantalizing matches, Tunisia vs. Saudi Arabia on June 14, will be followed by an interesting coupling, Brazil vs. Australia on June 18. The Ivory Coast takes on Serbia and Montenegro on June 21. The second round also starts there on June 24, and a semifinal is on July 5.
HOTELS: Most hotels are clustered near the hauptbanhof, or main train station. Among the best is the InterCity (Bayerstrasse 10; 49-89-444-440; www.inter-cityhotel.de), with rooms starting around 90 euros a night. If that's sold out, Munich has a hotel booking service (49-89-233-96555, www.muenchen.de). Shut out in Munich? Try nearby Salzburg, just over the border in Austria.
NO TICKET? Go to the Olympiastadion. Built for the 1972 Games, this fabulous open-air arena seats 20,000 and will feature a giant video screen, live concerts and soccer forums.
DOWNTIME: A naturist at heart? The Schoenfeldwiese, a meadow in the center of the sprawling Englischer Garden, is the place for you. It is reserved for nude sunbathing, and will be packed with all manner of humanity.
NUREMBERG
Nuremberg has a mixed reputation. Once known for its Renaissance arts and sciences, the city was, of course, where the Nazi war crime trials took place. Still, Nuremberg will surprise visitors with its architectural beauty (turrets and stained glass galore) and delicious bratwurst.
GAMES: Frankenstadion is host to Mexico's opener against Iran on June 11. Possible upsets here include the match between England and Trinidad and Tobago on June 15 and Japan against Croatia on June 18. In a likely sudden-death match, the US will face Ghana on June 22. A second-round game is on June 25.
HOTELS: In town? Don't bother. Rooms have been sold out since last year. Hotels in nearby Erlangen and Fuerth may still have vacancies. Or try the Nuremberg tourist office 49-911-23-3-6131, www.nuernberg.de) for cancel-lations. If that fails, contact the FIFA booking service, but don't get your hopes up. This is one of the toughest cities to get a room in.
NO TICKET? The Volksfestplatz, on the city's southern edge, is the designated viewing area for fans without tickets and will feature big-screen TV's and Franconian-style beers. It is right next to the Frankenstadion, so expect more foot traffic than in the other viewing areas.
DOWNTIME: The riveting and horrifying Dokumentation Reichsparteitagsgelande (Documentation Center Nazi Party Rally Grounds) was the site of the huge Nazi rallies (Bayernstrasse 110; 49-911-231-5666; www.museen.nuernberg.de; admission 5 euros). It should not be missed.
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