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Restaurant: Tonkatsu (福勝亭)

The owners of recently opened Tonkatsu aim to take over the fried pork chop business in Taipei. PHOTO: JULES QUARTLY, TAIPEI TIMES

There was a time when mom-and-pop stores were on the corner of every Taipei street. Now there are big-name convenience stores instead. How long until many of the family-run food stalls that dot the capital are replaced by chains?

The latest in an ever increasing line of chain store eateries catering to the masses opened last week on Nanjing East Road, a prime spot to catch office worker trade.

Serving up fried Japanese pork chops and rice, the food is not intended to win awards. The aim, rather, is to satisfy a market demographic and put the competition out of business.

As Andrew Chang (張榮基), the president of Mercuries and Associates Ltd's food division, put it when opening the store recently: "The meal is not as oily as in Japan and, of course, we have had to alter it to suit local tastes. This is the first of a chain and we will test whether the concept succeeds."

He then explained how Tonkatsu would prevail. First, it would spend twice as much as its rivals on oil (a good idea). Second, the quality of the pork would meet national standards for frozen meat (you would hope so). Finally, the rice is said to be the variety that was grown exclusively for Japan's emperor around 70 years ago.

To be fair, the result is not bad. Our meal arrived with miso soup and a few condiments, plus a small tea dessert. The main dish of fried pork had a clean flavor and arrived with a garnish of two cherry tomatoes and a lemon. For NT$130 and free refills of rice, cabbage and miso soup there can be few complaints.

Other choices included fish fritters, fried giant shrimps, beef and chicken curry. The curry sauce to go with the signature dish, fried pork, is NT$40 and a cup of coke is NT$15. Put an accountant in the kitchen and this is the kind of menu you would expect: rather insipid, with portions calculated to fill the gap.

As for the decor, it's cold, white and clean with recessed fans, spotlights and bleached formica floors. The tables are dark, veneered wood. Paper lanterns are intended to give the place a kind of Japanese feel. A couple of illuminated signs advertising the food and some fire extinguishers complete the picture.

There is a tradition in Japan that if you have a pork chop meal you will have good luck, hence the name of the restaurant in Chinese "Happy Victory Pavilion" (福勝亭). Eventually, you have the feeling, big business will succeed against family-run restaurants.

Address: 170 Nanjing E. Rd Sec2, Taipei (台北市南京東路二段170號)
Telephone: (02) 2516 2606
Open: 11am to 10pm
Average meal: NT$130
Details: Chinese and Japanese menu

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