Riding the wave of the Matsu pilgrimage

It was 3am and at the head of the procession the energy levels were still high. A new gang had taken over carrying the palanquin and there were more fireworks to signpost the route and light the way. Other palanquins joined the procession, lit up by fluorescent lights. It was a great journey, we were like salmon to the Sargasso Sea. The devout held their incense sticks, smiling serenely against the dark and content in their own world. Volunteers provided cups of hot tea along the route as if this were a marathon.

Around 11am the train of pilgrims arrived in Hsichou (溪洲), Changhua County, and some took a break, sleeping in the town's temples. From tour busses immaculately turned-out middle-aged woman dressed in bright yellow tops and blue pants emerged. Another group in black sweat pants, white hats and turquoise tops and white rain jackets bustled along the street. They had prepared gifts of brightly colored food for the goddess.

Around lunchtime there was another big display. First the procession with its costumed soldiers and musicians and followers wound its way through the town's narrow streets, filling them with smoke. Then they returned to the temple and everyone bowed three times before entering, accompanied by a cannonade of fireworks and wail of horns. Drunken gods clowned, policemen took their turn carrying the palanquin and the local bigwigs got their chance for an interview on national TV. Then the show was back on the road to Hsiluo (西螺).

Even the ill and the poor are encouraged to go on the Tachia Matsu pilgrimage, for the obvious reason that Matsu will bless them for it. One disabled pilgrim surnamed Chang (張) had joined the march in Hsichou. He rode on his motorbike and had a wide betel-nut stained grin. "Of course taking a pilgrimage will improve your health," he said. "I could not live without it."