Watching nature take its course
More than 20,000 gray whales make their home in the Pacific. From December to February, the main population comes close to the California coast as it moves from Alaska to its winter residence in the warm waters off Baja California. Beginning in March, the whales start their return leg, often bringing along their newborns. Among the best vantage points is the Treebones Resort at Cape St. Martin (www.treebonesresort.com; yurts start at US$129). Five campsites are also available for two guests each.
Elephant seals make their presence known on the beaches of Piedras Blancas, just north of San Simeon. Witness pups being born and harems being formed at the Elephant Seal vista point (Mile Marker 63, Highway 1). For more information, contact the Friends of the Elephant Seal (www.elephantseal.org).
Clear skies also dominate and there's no better tool for seeking out stars and planets than the powerful GPS telescope at the Post Ranch Inn (Highway 1, Big Sur, www.postranchinn.com; doubles from US$525). There are nightly stargazing sessions with local astronomers from 8pm to 9pm, weather permitting. Pair the
experience with an US$85 four-course dinner at Sierra Mar.
At the permanent exhibition at the visitor center at Hearst Castle (750 Hearst Castle Road, San Simeon; www.hearstcastle.org, tickets from US$20), you can see photos of the family tents at Camp Hill and examine more characteristically over-the-top Hearst
memorabilia.
At a picturesque spot on the Big Sur coast, Orson Welles and Rita Hayworth bought a little cabin in 1947. Later, they sold it to the Fassett family, who opened a sun-splashed restaurant, Nepenthe, with excellent views (Highway 1, Big Sur, www.nepenthebigsur.com, lunch for two US$40).
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