The word fusion never passed the manager's lips when she was explaining the concept behind Moga, which means modern girl in gairaigo (words of foreign derivation in Japanese, often colloquially referred to as Janglish).
The chef, owner and manager are Japanese and the menu incorporates ingredients sourced from the "Land of the Rising Sun." Welcome to one of Taipei's more established Italian restaurants.
Opened six years ago Moga has been doing a steady trade with mainly Japanese and Taiwanese patrons. Japanese-style Italian food in a Taiwanese setting may sound like a bit of a mishmash, but Ito Tomoe, the restaurant manager who has been with the establishment since day one, pointed out the advantages of a marriage between two proud culinary cultures: Japanese interpretations of Western cuisine pays attention to the ingredients. This was evident in the linguine alla genovese, for which sweet basil grown on a Yangmingshan farm was used in the homemade pesto sauce instead of the Thai variety that is ubiquitous in Taiwanese cooking.
The menu contains a few of the usual suspects that anyone who hasn't spent any time in Italy or attended a Tuscany cooking school would appreciate. The Gorgonzola bruschetta is a flavorsome appetizer. Chunks of baguette baked in a gorgonzola sauce were served by immaculately dressed wait staff, piping hot within a few minutes of being ordered. Sharers be warned: this dish is deservedly popular and surprisingly "morish."
The restaurant seats 42 and is arranged in three seating styles -- open view, partially screened and cut off from the outside world. The seating along the walls consists of a banquette and chairs. On one side diners have the option of pulling down a blind that forms a barrier with the next table, which creates an intimate environment.
The restaurant serves daily soup and dessert specials. The seafood soup, served with two slices of lightly toasted baguette, was filled with clams, octopus, squid, shrimp and small chunks of fish.
Ingredients from Japan which find their way into the pasta dishes include sea urchin and Hokkaido king crab. For Valentine's Day, on Tuesday, Moga has a set menu priced at NT$1,500, which includes "gifts" of roses and handmade Japanese chocolates.
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