Local designers share their chic

But, "it's too simple to just say that the government needs to help the fashion industry. Fashion designers must know the international fashion system. Right now Taiwanese fashion designers don't know that," said Chien. "Each country has local designers, and international designers, but Taiwan doesn't have international designers, just us. France also has a lot of local designers that can't make it into the international system."

Others view the government's position differently. For the industry as a whole, "if Taiwan wants to go international then the government must help," local designer Isabelle Wen (溫慶珠) said.

Taiwan's fashion industry grew out of the Dihua Street fabric market when the nation enjoyed brisk economic growth in the 1970s. Two generations of fashion designers ensued, Wen said. The first generation included companies such as Golden Lion and Five Pennies, and they sought to construct fashion brands at a time when international fashion houses were securing a foothold in the local market.

Lifestyle marketing and sophisticated branding mark out the current generation. But despite having overseas retail outlets and recognizable branding the second generation remains localized.

"France has the international business environment and traditions to foster an international fashion industry," Chien said. "Taiwan's focus is on local industry."

For Chien, "the most important question is the design style. You cannot copy designs, you have to develop a style. It's very dangerous to be influenced too much by other people. Having a strong personality, different from everyone else is most important.

"Secondly, top designers have a developed perception of the kind of woman we want to dress; this has to be consistent throughout the different seasons. These two things are lacking in Taiwan designers. Number three is to take stories from history. For us we took inspiration from Taiwan's story."

Chien and Pan have started a diffusion line, and plan to open a flagship store in Taipei in April. The local-boys-made-good, the third generation of Taiwan fashion designers, are coming home.