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Restaurants: South Africa Fish House (南非信義店)

Taste buds are challenged at the South Africa Fish House. PHOTO: STEVE PRICE, TAIPEI TIMES

The decor is a subtle mix of brown and cream and the only clue as to what's on the menu are the Zulu shields and haunting African masks that adorn the walls.

The South Africa Fish House, a one-story building that looks out of place sandwiched between the drab high rises of Xinyi Road and which from the front looks poky, fans out into a 17-table restaurant, 25m long. It specializes in just what the name says -- fish imported from the "Europe of Africa."

Green salad with banana slices, sounds like a recipe for disaster. But normally sweet, fragrant chunks of the yellow fruit are transformed with spices and an oil dressing to compliment the savory leaves. The contrasting textures of crisp leaves and banana took a few bites to get used to, but then as the senses realign, the dish can be fully appreciated.

Jerry Chen (陳岡甫), a local entrepreneur with business

connections in South Africa, opened up in August and he imports a range of products from the "Rainbow Country,"

South Africa Fish House Address: 345, Xinyi Rd, Sec 4, Taipei (台北市信義路四段345號) Telephone: (02) 2703 1099 Open: Breakfast (limited menu) 7am to 10:30am, 11:30am to 3am (Lunch and dinner). Average meal: NT$500 Details: English menu

including parrot and monkfish. Amarula Cream is used to flavor the desserts, and Mrs. Ball's chutney -- an institution in South Africa -- adds a dash of flavor to the main dishes.

The fish and chips, a throwback to British influence on the region, was appealing and the crispy batter encasing the monkfish was surprisingly grease-free.

The owner, although keen on keeping his trade secrets close to heart (he refused to divulge the blend of spices used in the biltong-style veal), revealed that a long search for the perfect flour had ended successfully, with the discovery of one brand that allowed the fish to cook perfectly but also repelled much of the oil.

The dish was topped off with a dollop of the chutney, made from 12 fruits, which are fermented in vats. The sweet piquant fruit chutney enlivened taste buds that the fish alone did not.

None of the dishes on the menu are dull, particularly the shrimp peri peri, made using bird's eye chili peppers. Fruit pops up where it is least expected, like in the pork curry.

The wait staff are relaxed but nevertheless helpful in

choosing from the lengthy menu.

Taipei is home to a full range of ersatz foreign restaurants but the South African Fish House is unique. At the back there is a comfortable lounge area, which exudes an earthy, soothing appeal replete with armchairs, TV screen, rattan covered walls and ceiling.
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