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Restaurant: Xiao Jiang (小江日本料理)

Xiao Jiang provides more than just fusion. PHOTO: GAVIN PHIPPS, TAIPEI TIMES

Over the past couple of years Taipei has seen a marked rise in the number of fusion Japanese restaurants, where East

supposedly meets West and the interior design is "so" creative that it proves more of a conversation piece than the food itself.

If you're fed up with dining out at such places and are looking for something more down to earth, then Xiao Jiang

(小江日本料理) is a good start. Xiao Jiang is a bit of a Taipei icon when it comes to Japanese fare and so popular that those without reservations often have to wait to be seated.

At first glance the joint has all the trappings of a common Taiwanese beerhouse with its outdoor refrigerator and a

relaxed come-as-you-like attitude. Unlike its more earthy brethren, however, Xiao Jiang is both clean and inviting and you certainly won't find yourself seated next to a gang of lads spitting betel nut juice onto the floor.

There's no pretence at Xiao Jiang. There's no arty decor, the furniture is not "fashionably mod" and the wait staff are, thankfully, more concerned with the hunger pangs of the patrons rather their hairstyles. Diners are treated to traditional Japanese folk, or nakashi music, which plays constantly at a moderate volume.

Notes Address: 69-3, Hejiang St, Taipei (台北市合江街69-3號) Telephone: (02) 2515 0236 Open: 6pm to 11pm (closed on Mondays) Average meal: NT$1,500 for two Details: No menu

There is no menu, so ordering is simply a case of peering into the large refrigerator and choosing your fare from the smorgasbord of fresh foodstuffs that lurk within. These include various types of fish, king prawns, mussels, clams, giant oysters, squid, chicken, beef, pork and just about any other edible creature.

The food is seasonal and as such prices do fluctuate somewhat depending on the availability of certain fish and vegetables. As such a meal for two -- sashimi, barbecued fish, a vegetable dish, giant grilled oysters and rice cake -- will at present set diners back roughly NT$1,500.

If you have no clue as to what you want to eat, or what some of the oceanic oddities are, let alone how you want them prepared, then the staff will be more than happy to introduce you to several of the house specials. While it's impossible to pick a winner, as all the food eaten by this reviewer at the joint has been superb, one of my recommendations is the BBQ Tilapia (吳郭魚). When it's smothered with freshly squeezed lemon juice it is by far one of the best fish dishes to be had in all of Taipei.

The joint has a mini bar and patrons can order pricey bottles of whiskey and other spirits, but in keeping with the Japanese flavor of the repast, the best brew on offer is Kirin beer.
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