With their deeply grooved faces, jutting demonic eyes (usually red), outsize fangs and brilliant colors, they are irresistible -- and for many local children, irresistibly scary. The vejigazos, or bladder attacks, don't help, and many children in the Dominican Republic grow up with a kind of love-fear relationship to Carnaval.
In recent years, the Carnaval authorities have tried to restrict the whipping: only on the street, and only on the behind. Many of the visitors dispersed after the parade ended, but for those who stayed, the party had just begun. Freed from their marching orders, devils roamed the streets, doling out freelance vejigazos, and kids whose parents bought them vejigas from vendors joined in.
Hearing that I had remained largely unscathed from the vejigazos, one diablo reared back and took a massive swing. The next day, as I settled into my seat on the airplane I realized I was leaving La Vega with a black-and-blue souvenir of the place.
ON YOUR WAY TO SANTO DOMINGO:
Taipei to Tokyo to New York (with overnight stays at your own expense) is the way to the Dominican Republic's capital of Santo Domingo. This costs NT$49,800, for five days to three months, through T-Link Travel Service. Call (02) 2562 9335 or ctlink@ms43.hinet.net. Renting a car is advisable. You can use one of the many ATM's in La Vega to get pesos.
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