Local residents are less accepting of the big investors who have started to invade the area, obvious from the various construction sites. For the moment, the hope is that the Spielbudenplatz will become a market that would serve as a lively daily commercial hub; while the area around the Reeperbahn is extremely colorful and electric at night, by day it's faded and hung over.
But the neighboring hip Schanzen district, within St. Pauli's northern borders, is usually buzzing by noon. "This is absolutely my favorite part of the city," McCormack said. "It's like the East and West Villages combined."
At the new Eisheiligen on Wohlwillstrasse, a cafe-style ice cream shop, parents with brightly dyed hair and leather jackets exchanged licks of melon and biscuit with their urban offspring. It was a scene that captured a Hamburg that's both relaxed and cutting edge.
Quick guide to Hamburg:
Getting there:
Return ticket to Hamburg from Taipei costs NT$25,300 plus tax (around NT$8,000) with Swissair. Through Interlink Travel (call (02) 2578 0611).
Where to stay:
■ East: Simon-von-Utrecht-Strasse 31, (309 930), www.east-hamburg.de, has 103 modern-styled rooms for US$174 to US$445.
■ Kogge: Bernhard-Nocht-Strasse 59, (312 872); www.kogge-hamburg.com, is a former bordello. Its 12 small rooms have been decorated by local artists: US$57.
■ Schanzenstern: Bartelsstrasse 12, (439 8441), www.schanzenstern.de, is a simple, clean hostel in Schanzen. Rooms go for US$40 to US$100.
Where to eat:
■ Schauermann: Hafenstrasse 136-138, (3179 4660), serves "new German" cuisine with a Mediterranean twist amid coolly
elegant 1960s decor.
■ Artisan: Kampstrasse 27, (4210 2915), is an intimate place serving contemporary
cuisine. Fixed-price dinners are US$40 to US$100, without wine. Closed Sunday and Monday.
■ Zirkus Erich: Erichstrasse 19, (6887 3033), a stylish Mediterranean restaurant at the Erotic Art Museum. A meal for two without wine is about US$45.
■ Cuneo: Davidstrasse 11, (312 580), serves classic Italian entrees, ranging from US$12 to US$26. Closed Sunday.
What to See and do:
■ Erotic Art Museum: Bernhard-Nocht Strasse 69, (317 8410); www.eroticartmuseum.de (German only): With an impressive permanent collection of artwork from Picasso to David Hockney, the museum is now showing an exhibit of fetish art.
■ Kurverwaltung St. Pauli: (3179 0747), ww.kurverwaltungstpauli.de, offers tours of St. Pauli. For an English-speaking guide call ahead and book Kiki, who specializes in the area's architecture and future projects. A more than two-hour-long tour costs US$30 for up to five people.
■ FC St Pauli: A legendary soccer team but now in the third division, plays its games at Millerntor Stadium, in the center of St. Pauli. Tickets are US$10 to US$100.
Note: To call Hamburg, dial 49-40 before for the numbers above.
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