For the last morning of my Tokyo weekend I wanted to visit Yasukuni Shrine, which had been much in the news because every year Japanese Prime Minister Junichiro Koizumi continues to visit this place, which enshrines Japan's most notorious war criminals. As I got closer, I saw some activists too young to have ever fought in the war dressed in old Japanese army gear, and a young family decked out in fatigues and camouflage.
The museum (US$7.50 admission) was an interesting exercise in historical revisionism, observing, among other things, that the Japanese had in fact inspired the anti-colonial struggles of Southeast Asia. My Japanese friend Miyuki was so sickened by this propaganda that she insisted we visit the nearby tomb of the unknown soldier, Chidori ga Fuchi Senbotsusha Boen, which was a serene antidote to Yasukuni.
With transport, snacks, a few more meals and convenience store purchases totaling US$131, I managed to come in US$7 under my US$500 limit.
I wrapped up my weekend convinced that even when experienced on a budget, Tokyo, with its speed, energy and constant flux, its local delights and its celebration of the cosmopolitan, deserves a place of honor among the world's great cities of the 21st century.
For your information
Where to eat and drink:
Restaurant T, Atago Shrine, 1-5-3 Atago, Minato-ku, call (81-3) 5777-5557.
Samurai, Shinjuku 3-35-5, Shinjuku-ku, fifth floor, call (81-3) 3341-0383.
Milk Wonton, 3-7-9 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, call (81-3) 3215-1939.
If, 3-2-5 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku, call (81-3) 5739-0848.
Kuu, Nishi-Shinjuku 2-6-1, Shinjuku Sumitomo Building, 50th floor, call (81-3) 3344 6457.
Ofuro, 4-45-10 Akazutsumi, Setagaya-ku, call (81-3) 5300-6007.
What to see:
Ghibli Museum, 1-1-83 Shimorenjaku, Mitaka Shi, (81-5) 7005 5777, see www.ghibli-museum.jp.
Getting there:
Cathay Pacific offers return trip tickets for approximately NT$12,700 including tax. Call Interlink Travel (02) 2578 0611 or Super Star Travel (02) 2721 6018.
RSS