Although Tuzraktar is an artsy place, the row of Pilsner Urquell beer taps betrays the intention to make serious money. To Budapest's with-it crowd, such commercial success is almost worse than non- existence, and they cite Zold Pardon as an example of a garden bar selling out. It started in 1999 as a shack on a patch of grass by the River Danube. Now, it is the Hungarian capital's number-one party zone.
To a visitor, however, this just underlines the vibrant nature of Budapest nightlife. Yet this same dynamism is the biggest danger to the garden bars. With Hungary's recent accession to the European Union stimulating growth, office blocks and luxurious apartments are more profitable investments than cosy drinking holes in ruined courtyards. This uncertainty only emphasizes the transient character of the gardens.
Whether you go there as a respite from the sweltering afternoon heat, or to party till daybreak, knowing it won't last will make you appreciate your secret summer hideout all the more.
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