Sat, Aug 20, 2005 - Page 16 News List

'Campaign for real beauty'

Top US advertisers are increasingly enlisting ordinary-looking women rather than waifish supermodels

By Stuart Elliott  /  NY TIMES NEWS SERVICE , NEW YORK

Dove's campaign advert is seen on a billboard on Broadway. It uses six women of various sizes who are not professional models.

PHOTO: NY TIMES

Madison Avenue advertisers in the US are increasingly interested in using everyday women in advertising instead of waifish supermodels.

The change comes after the Dove line of personal-care products sold by Unilever introduced what it called a "campaign for real beauty," which presents women in advertisements as they are, rather than as some believe they ought to be.

If the fad becomes a trend and shows legs, so to speak, it has the potential to fundamentally change decades of image-making on Madison Avenue. But that is a big if indeed. There have been many previous instances of ads that showed so-called real women in place of professional models, which receded as the allure of glamour again reared its beautiful head. This week, Nike is introducing a humorous print and online campaign for exercise gear, frankly glorifying body parts that until now were almost never seen in ads, much less celebrated. One ad, which begins boldly, "My butt is big," features an oversized photograph of the derriere in question.

Another Nike ad declares, "I have thunder thighs," while a third asserts, "My shoulders aren't dainty or proportional to my hips. Some say they are like a man's. I say, leave men out of it."

The Nike ads, by Wieden and Kennedy in Portland, Oregon, are arriving days after the Chicken of the Sea brand of tuna introduced a television commercial showing a gorgeous young woman being ogled by the men in her office. She can escape their wolfish ways only in the elevator, which she enters alone, then breathes a sigh of relief -- revealing she really has a more-than-ample stomach, which she had been holding in.

The Nike campaign was in the works, executives say, well before the much-publicized arrival last month of Dove print and outdoor ads showing six women, none of them models, sizes four to 12, smiling in their underwear. (The first Dove "real beauty" ads, showing older, wrinkled women, started appearing last fall.) And the Chicken of the Sea commercial is adapted from a spot that its parent, Thai Union Frozen Products, began running in Asia in 2001.

Even so, the arrival of all the ads at the same time suggests that change may be in the air.

"We've gotten tired of airbrushed pictures none of us can relate to or recognize," said Linda Kaplan Thaler, one of the most prominent women in advertising, whose agency, the Kaplan Thaler Group in New York, was not involved in creating any of the campaigns. Advertisers are "loosening the reins," said Kaplan Thaler, who is chief executive and chief creative officer at her agency, which is owned by the Publicis Groupe, in recognition of the reality that "women are the majority of consumers and are buying most of the products."

But those facts have been evident for years. Why the new style of ads now? One reason, said Nathan Coyle, senior strategist at Brain Reserve in New York, a consulting company, is the advent of reality television.

"Your neighbors, everyday people, are the new celebrities," Coyle said, which feeds the desire for marketers "to shift from depicting women who are unattainable to women who are attainable."

Kelly Simmons, president of a brand-consulting company in Philadelphia named Bubble, offered another reason: the aging of the baby boomers -- the 76 million Americans born from 1946 to 1964 -- who have long set the pace for marketers and advertising agencies. The first boomers will start turning 60 on Jan. 1.

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