Restaurant: BamBoo

By Diana Freundl
CONTRIBUTING REPORTER
Friday, Aug 12, 2005, Page 15

Sake, strong cocktails and quality Japanese grilled cuisine at Bamboo. PHOTO: DIANA FREUNDL, TAIPEI TIMES

Taipei is home to a large number of Japanese restaurants and deciding which one to visit can be an endless task. Riding on the popularity of FiFi's restaurant and bar on Renai Road, the owners have decided to channel some of that success to the ground floor with Bamboo, a new dining experience that serves up Japanese grilled cuisine.

The menu is an example of quality versus quantity; it is limited in choice but plentiful in taste. Keep in mind that this is a Japanese grill, not a sushi bar. Thus the main attraction is the open grill near the back of the restaurant. Although the portions are suitable for one, it's better to order a few dishes and share them with a group.

Our table sampled the grilled Japanese samba fish (NT$280) and vegetables (NT$260). The veggies included an assortment of mushrooms, peppers, okra and eggplant, which were all seasoned with a light barbecue sauce. The samba has a potent soy taste that won't suit everyone, but for those who enjoy strong salty flavorings, it comes highly recommended. The favorite at the table was the rice bowl with tea soup and salmon (NT$280). The bowl is filled with rice, salmon and a wasabi-tea base, which is served in a small kettle on the side. The combination of wasabi, tea and fish was perfectly balanced according to my dinner partners. Another dish available but not tried includes grilled tuna with ginger soy sauce and wasabi and boneless beef ribs, both of which are said to be popular orders.

To aid the digestion there is a small selection of desserts, or for something stronger there is a variety of sake and sake cocktails. Beginners who know little about the drink, can try one of two house brands available by the kettle (enough for two people). Seasoned sake drinkers can peruse the menu and opt for a full bottle from one of more than 25 choices. I tried Tezukuri Umeshu, which is a smooth apricot rice wine that has a similar sweetness to ice-wine and can be purchased by glass or bottle.

While the interior of FiFi's is a testament to local designer Isabelle Wen's (溫慶珠) flare for fashion, Bamboo takes a more minimalist approach with its design. The establishment is the result of the collective efforts of Wen's sister Lily Wen (溫慶玉) and brother-in-law Patrick Lee (李紹榮), who previously operated Club 75 in Taipei's Xinyi district. The space is not large, but is well laid out. The soft lighting and Patrick Lee's paintings create a modern and comfortable dinning ambiance and a small patio space at the back is also scheduled to open shortly.