Fri, Jul 01, 2005 - Page 15 News List

Restaurant: Gulu Gulu

Address: 2, Lane 13, Wuquan W 4th Street, Taichung (台中市五權西四13巷2號)
Telephone: (04) 2378 3128
OPEN: 10am to 2pm for lunch; 5pm to 12am for dinner
Average meal: Set meals range NT$260 to NT$560
Details: English and Chinese menu. Credit cards accepted

By Diana Freundl  /  STAFF REPORTER

Spicy grilled wild boar meat served with crispy boar skin chips and seasoned with wasabi.

PHOTO COURTESY OF GULU GULU

Satisfying a vegetarian diet is seldom an issue at restaurants in Taiwan, but being a vegetarian can limit the variety of eating experiences you have here. Veggie alternatives to traditional indigenous dishes might taste delicious but will never be quite the same experience as eating the "real" thing, and this was confirmed on a recent visit to a Gulu Gulu .

A popular spot for authentic indigenous cuisine, Gulu Gulu was opened last year in Taichung city by Paiwan singer Chiu Jin-ming (邛金明). The menu offers meatless alternatives to its traditional fare, but judging by the comments made by my dinner companion, the vegetable dish paled in comparison to the grilled boar meat served with crisp and spicy boar-skin chips.

Other recommended dishes include Taimali's pig knuckle, which is pickled with spices and millet wine to give it a unique tart and salty flavor, said Chiu's wife, who also works at the restaurant.

Several of the dishes can be ordered separately for light dining or late-night snacking, but the best way to sample as much as possible is to opt for a set meal, which includes a starter, soup, main course, dessert and beverage.

It isn't often that starters are the main attraction but a slice of ah vai was said to be an exception. Ah-vai is a traditional Paiwan dish prepared with sticky rice, pork and peanuts, and wrapped inside two large leaves, which absorbs some of the oil but retains its flavor. Both the ah-vai and spicy tofu-based dipping sauce it is served with are made by Chiu's mother and shipped weekly from her Taimali village in Taidong.

Every set meal includes a small glass of millet wine, and even if is not your drink of choice, it would be a shame not to try one glass of vava-yoyo or ma pu lao (a stronger version).

The restaurant is a small colonial-style house converted into a two-floor dinning area, which also doubles as a gallery space exhibiting aboriginal art works. Large driftwood sculptures and mural paintings are intermixed with black and white photographs, depicting some of Taiwan's indigenous villages.

On the first floor is a small stage for daily performances at 12:30pm and 7pm. Although the scheduled time is one hour, the music often continues or starts up again later in the evening.

On this particular occasion, Chiu was accompanied by costumers from other tables and took to the stage several times in a two-hour period. The restaurant gets busy during the weekend so reservations are recommended.

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