Fri, Apr 29, 2005 - Page 15 News List

Restaurant: Dozo

Address: 102, Guangfu S Rd, Taipei (台北市大安區光復南路102號1樓)
Telephone: (02) 2778 1135
Open: Daily 6pm to 3am (last food order at 2pm)
Average meal: NT$500
Details: English and Chinese Menu. Credit cards accepted

By Diana Freundl  /  STAFF REPORTER

The tofu and seaweed salad tastes too good to share.

PHOTO: DIANA FREUNDL, TAIPEI TIMES

Dozo is as good as any contemporary izakaya ("Japanese beer hall") in Tokyo. It is a great place for a meal or light snack and offers similar fare.

Before opening the restaurant in January, the owners spent time researching Japan's bars and eateries, and the decor wasn't the only thing they imported -- the chef was also brought over to ensure authenticity.

The restaurant's genuineness is proven by the number of Japanese patrons who frequent the establishment -- enough to warrant the staff learning Japanese.

The extensive menu includes all the traditional snack foods one would expect at an izakaya in addition to dishes like omogoieyyuo, often found only at specialty restaurants.

The only disappointment was the missing eda mame (boiled soya beans with salt), which is standard at most Japanese bars.

There are many grilled, deep fried and barbeque meat options as well as the popular sashimi, which can be ordered in small sizes or in assorted combos (NT$260 up to NT$980). The charcoal grilled beef with garlic sauce and the seafood and avocado salad are highly recommended by a few regular customers.

There is also a good selection of vegetable and tofu dishes to satisfy vegetarian and vegan restrictions. The tofu and seaweed salad is made with fresh, soft tofu and served over a bed of greens and savory homemade sesame dressing. It's too good to share.

The okonomiyaki (potato or rice-based pancake) filled with cabbage, carrots, onion and its namesake cream sauce is as tasty as those made in Hiroshima.

The portions are surprisingly large given the reasonable prices. A tofu salad, soba noodles and okonomiyaki was more than enough for two people and under NT$500, leaving extra money for drinks.

There is a separate beverage menu with a range of cocktail concoctions made with green tea or fresh fruit. Economically, beer is the better option with choice of bottled Asahi or pints of Orion draft. A word to the wise: the samurai -- a lethal cocktail -- packs a punch and may make you want to commit ritual suicide the next day.

Operated by the same group that owns TU and Brown Sugar, Dozo's lively atmosphere is more like a trendy Taipei lounge bar than a restaurant.

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