It wasn't the most graceful performance -- neither of us had clipped into a pair of cross-country skis in at least a decade -- but Dunton's beauty police must have been off duty. No one even winced when our skis stuttered instead of gliding like butter.
The sun had warmed the air to well above freezing and sent sparks flinting off the bleachy white snow. The partly frozen river was an exquisite palimpsest of ice: along the banks where the ice was thickest it had built up rough pimply scars from several freezes, but as the ice thinned closer to the line of the current, it became milky, then as clear and fragile as crystal.
Then there were the two imposing "fourteener" peaks, El Diente and Mount Wilson, towering above us. It was ... perfect.
That's the thing about Dunton Hot Springs: underneath the high-gloss finish and the relentless tastefulness is a rare authenticity. It is possible that there is simply too much eye candy at Dunton -- the refined rusticism of the decor, the amazing art and photography -- and too many ways to indulge yourself. But at a certain point you just have to give in and enjoy it.
The Henkels may have gilded and Karl May-ified Dunton, but underneath the place still has a soul.
If You Go
Dunton Hot Springs is on West Fork Road, off Highway 145 between Telluride and Cortez, Colorado (970 882 4800; www.duntonhotsprings.com). Visitors can fly into the Telluride, Cortez or Durango airports and and rent a car or have the resort arrange transportation by luxury SUV or helicopter for an additional charge.
There are 11 individually decorated cabins. Rates start at US$250 a person a day, including meals, nonalcoholic beverages and unlimited use of the three hot springs. Helicopter skiing is available in conjunction with Telluride Helitrax (866 435 4754).
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