To think of Penghu as an island off Taiwan is to get it the wrong way around. Because of its location in the middle of the Taiwan Strait, the islands of the archipelago have been a first and favorite destination for invading navies since the 17th century. Nowadays, though, it's a favorite destination for tourists -- and with good reason.
Makung, Baisha & Hsiyu
These three islands are the largest of the Penghu archipelago. A string of bridges completed in late 1970 has essentially turned the three islands into one large island. Makung is the largest of the three and is also the location of Makung City, the administrative center of the Penghu island group. While there are plenty of things to do and see in the city itself, it seems a pity to travel to an island only to spend time in a city. Best, then, to rent a scooter at the airport and set out for any of the islands' numerous beaches. There are several on Makung itself -- Shanshui, Aimen, Shili, and others -- but the best is at Neian, a 30km drive to the western side of Hsiyu.
Heading out to Hsiyu is a good idea for several reasons. As well as the beach, visitors can take in the lighthouse standing sentry on the western cliffs. It can be seen from 46.3km away and sits next to one of many military installations throughout Penghu that are off limits -- most of them at least.
Near the lighthouse is the famous Hsiyu Fortress. Built in 1884 to defend Penghu against the French, it is 7.2 hectares of poured reinforced cement tunnels that once housed four, huge British Armstrong canons. The site stands as a silent reminder of Penghu's tumultuous history.
Wangan
The island of Wangan is home to Chungshe (中社), one of Taiwan's most precious cultural properties -- at least according to the American Express Foundation, which put the centuries-old village on its World Monuments Watch list of the 100 most-endangered sites.
The village was established about 300 years ago by Han Chinese who were encouraged by the imperial authorities to guard against invasion by Japanese and European forces. The homes built by those first settlers have long since disappeared, but many of the 151 remaining courtyard homes date back 200 years.
With the exception of three modern houses, all the structures have maintained their traditional aesthetic. The corrugated sheet metal covering the roofs of most buildings in Taiwan isn't found here. Many of the homes still use traditional cooking stoves. Water is still drawn from public wells. And each of the few remaining residents still makes a living from fishing and farming.
Chungshe suffered a mass exodus in 1971, when the government began providing semi-regular boat services to the island. At present, there are only some 240 residents left.
And it would seem none of them are beachcombers. Wangan's other obvious asset is its beach, located at the southern end of the island. When the Taipei Times last stepped foot on Wangan, they left behind the only footprints the stretch of pristine golden sand had seen in weeks, according to locals. They seemed mystified that anyone would use the beach for something other than fishing.
The only other beach on Wangan isn't for swimming. It's where giant sea turtles come each year to lay their eggs. It's also the site of a sea turtle protection center-cum-museum. The museum was built to satisfy the curiosity of thousands of visitors who came each year to watch the sea turtles lay their eggs, then came again when the eggs hatched and the tiny turtles made their way into the ocean. It served another, more important, function as well: Keeping the visitors off the beach and away from the endangered turtles.
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