Sat, May 29, 2004 - Page 16 News List

Taking a paddle around Taiwan

Mark Western is kayaking around Taiwan to raise money for coastal environment protection. It's crazy and dangerous, but he still calls it fun

By Max Woodworth  /  STAFF REPORTER

PHOTOS COURTESY OF PADDLE TAIWAN PROJECT

There are easier ways to raise a couple million NT dollars for ecological conservation than circumnavigating Taiwan in a sea kayak. But they're not likely to interest Mark Western, a Canadian expat with a lust for adventure that he ingeniously turns into money for good causes, as with his Paddle Taiwan Project which is nearly complete and looks set to raise about NT$1.5 million for two local NGOs.

For his latest fund-raising adventure the 37-year-old pushed off the beach at Baishawan, Taipei County, on May 1 in a 4.8m sea kayak and began tracing a 1,100km counter-clockwise route around Taiwan. It's an endeavor that follows up on another ambitious scheme he led in 2000 called Taiwalk, which raised NT$4.2 million for orphans. Like his current self-imposed challenge, Taiwalk entailed circling Taiwan -- though on foot and on land.

Because it's at sea, the Paddle Taiwan Project raises the bar for pain and introduces a degree of danger that didn't exist in Taiwalk. In the past four weeks, Western has been dumped unceremoniously on a beach by a treacherous east coast shore break, he's been marooned on a sandbar 3km offshore and even found himself in the line of fire of military exercises. Then there are the more mundane, yet equally taxing, currents, waves and dangerous weather conditions all compounding the discomfort of non-stop physical exertion over weeks.

"It's been far more physically challenging than I had predicted. I trained for three hours twice a week before starting this, but that's nothing compared to paddling eight hours a day," said Western on Wednesday from Hualien in the short span between getting out of the water and collapsing for the night. "I'm feeling pretty lean."

Western has kept a journal of his trip that can be read on the project's Web site (http://www.paddle-taiwan.com http://www.paddle-taiwan.com/ ) and on the community Web site Forumosa. It provides a record of the emotional swings he's undergone, starting with exuberance on the first day's launch and then sinking into doubts about the whole project on the second day when he realized the insanity of paddling an average of 50km daily for a month on open waters. What is remarkable, though, is that despite the hardship and the frustration of falling almost a week behind due to typhoon Nida, Western remains generally upbeat.

"We lost time because of the typhoon. And then the past few days have been really tough, paddling all day into the wind. That really sucked," he said.

During his days on the water, Western said his mind works in three distinct ways. There's the physical one, "where I'm thinking about the heat, the rain, the wind, the pain." There's the mental one, "where I'm thinking about the past, the future and my family." And the spiritual realm, "Sometimes when I'm paddling time sort of stands still. Three hours can go by and it feels like three minutes."

Following Western on land is a two-person support team that stays in contact with him throughout the day and that monitors the global positioning system signal to track his movement along the coast. "The team on land might be even more tired than myself. [The logistics have] been a huge task for them," Western said.

Though the project is aimed at protecting Taiwan's coastal environments, Western says he spends little time gazing at the shores. "Yeah, the scenery is spectacular, but you can't look at it too much. It's like a great painting. After a while you still want to look at something else."

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