When not praying, surviving family members dressed in coarse cloth robes watch the performers and burn paper money. In contrast to other Taiwanese funerary rites during which loud mourning is considered desirable, no one cries during the spirit guide performances.
"Families that don't want a morbid atmosphere at their funeral will choose spirit guide troupes. They're supposed to be cheerful and festive and make it a happy occasion. It's like a party," said Hsiao Chin-hsing (蕭進興), general manager of Wuhu funerary services, which provides funeral services, though not spirit guide services.
Dying breed
Lee estimates that maybe a few dozen spirit guide troupes remain in Kaohsiung County, though the number is misleading because the groups disband to then rejoin when needed and operate on a part-time basis. What is certain, however, is that the trend points toward the troupes' disappearance within a few years, as more staid funerary rites become the norm.
"Ten, 15 years ago we had shows every day. Now, we're lucky if we get one once a week," Lee said. "The going rate is NT$11,000 per session, so after it's divided among all of us, it's not much money." Luckily for Lee he has his hardware store on wheels and a philosophical outlook that comes with an occupation that deals with the vagaries of fate.
After the show he explained with a shrug of the shoulders that tastes change and some traditions fall inevitably by the wayside. He gave little indication that he'd be nostalgic if he no longer played the music and performed the ritual movements he'd learned over decades.
"It's possible that the spirit guide tradition will fade soon, but I'm optimistic that it can also be revived at some point in the future. Everyone dies, so there's always the chance the tradition will survive," he said.
Next week Features looks at Chinese herbalists.
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