Mon, Jan 26, 2004 - Page 12 News List

Designers woo the crowds in Paris

Craftsmanship, Eastern influences and chic were on display over the weekend for the annual spring-summer fashion shows in France's capital

AFP , Paris

Laura G presents a lingerie creation by Playmate at the Paris Annual International Salon of Lingerie.

PHOTO: AGENCIES

The world's top fashion designers put on a marvelous display of creativity and craftsmanship in Paris over the past week, unveiling haute couture collections for next summer that oozed glitzy glamor or classy chic.

Only a privileged few clients are able to afford the fantastically expensive couture creations, but the spring-summer shows in the French capital afforded designers the chance to present their most lavish and whimsical ideas.

Some of the industry's talents chose the spectacular route, offering flashy high-energy catwalk shows that are perfect for raising brand awareness and selling their ready-to-wear lines, fragrances and accessories.

British designer John Galliano, ever the showman, delivered once again for Christian Dior, taking the fashion crowd on a trip up the Nile awash in the gold of Nefertiti and Tutankhamen -- just like Dior's gilded results last year.

The body-hugging glittering floor-length dresses are not suited for a Saturday afternoon of shopping, but they are evidence of Galliano's boundless imagination, and will surely reappear in some form for Dior ready-to-wear.

Jean-Paul Gaultier recreated traditional Japanese warrior garb in a stunning collection inspired by Tom Cruise's latest film The Last Samurai, using womanly curves and slinky satin to soften the hard armor edge.

Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, Christian Lacroix and Emanuel Ungaro opted for less flamboyant presentations, but perfectly captured the feminine spirit of couture by turning out light, airy clothes sure to make women feel special.

Lagerfeld provided a study in contrasts, achieving a sweet, pretty look by pairing slim jackets with flippy ruffled skirts, or an elegant high-waisted black skirt with a frothy white tulle jacket.

Lacroix and Ungaro showed that couture is alive and well by embracing the romance of flowers and bright colors, highlighting the painstaking hours of work required to make just one embroidered, beaded couture dress.

Lacroix delivered a tour de force show that showcased his love for mixing periods and geographic influences: a quilted red silk kimono coat topped a floral caftan with a high Victorian embellished lace collar.

Meanwhile, Ungaro brought couture back to its roots with an intimate, fun presentation in his own salons of sumptuous silk gowns in a jumble of brightly colored prints, worn by giggling, smiling models lounging on white couches.

At Givenchy, Julien Macdonald also produced a toned-down show at the venerable French house's boutique, turning out an impeccably cut, low-key collection -- his last couture line before his contract expires.

Understated luxury is the catch phrase for the polished work of US designer Ralph Rucci, the only American invited by the ultra-selective French fashion federation to show couture in Paris.

His graceful suits and flowing gowns in gorgeous fabrics -- shown in a grand mansion in the French capital's upscale 16th arrondissement -- won high praise from critics and buyers alike.

On the other end of the couture scale, Valentino, Donatella Versace and Lebanon's Elie Saab turned up the heat in Paris with their glamorous low-cut gowns and sexy, skimpy mini-dresses fit for the stars.

Versace's siren gowns and sleek pant suits sparkling with crystals and beads got the attention of pop diva Christina Aguilera, seated front and center for the sultry show at the posh Ritz hotel in central Paris.

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