Mon, Sep 22, 2003 - Page 16 News List

Old anchor or new chapter in Washington Irving tale?

By Matthew Preusch  /  NY TIMES NEWS SERVICE , TOFINO, BRITISH COLUMBIA

Lashed to Rod Palm's dock at his Strawberry Island home may be the key to unraveling one of the most enduring mysteries of North American maritime history.

Or it might just be an old anchor.

To Palm and some others in this small community on the lush west coast of Vancouver Island, the anchor fulfills decades of dreams. They say they are convinced that it once belonged to the Tonquin, a fur-trading vessel that established the first American settlement on the West Coast before being lost off Vancouver Island in 1811. If true, it would be a momentous discovery.

Despite several searches dating to 1890, the wreck of the Tonquin has never been found. But many doubt that the 2.6m-by-2.5m anchor sitting on Palm's dock changes anything.

E.W. Giesecke, a retired professor and Tonquin scholar in Olympia, Washington, said there were four sites where the wreck of the Tonquin might be, Clayoquot Sound near Tofino being just one of them.

"It's conjecture," Giesecke said.

At 61, Palm is one of the older working divers on Vancouver Island. The deck around his house, an old ferry in a concrete dry dock, is littered with the detritus of 30 years of salvage work: whale skulls, anchors, crab baskets.

But it is the island's many shipwrecks, particularly the Tonquin, that captivate Palm. So in April when a crab fisherman asked Palm to investigate a snag that had fouled his traps in Templar Strait, he was excited to discover that the protuberance was the exposed arm of a large anchor.

He later returned to retrieve the anchor, and now it sits in his ferry house on Strawberry Island.

From Strawberry Island, which he owns, Palm said he had watched Tofino transform from a salmon fishing village to a tourist destination, and his hope is that his discovery could be a boon for the town's fading maritime legacy.

"It's totally turned into a tourism-dependent village," Palm said. "It's not the sleepy village it used to be."

But his claim that the anchor is from the Tonquin has set off a lively debate among maritime historians and underwater archaeologists, and his determination to keep the anchor in Tofino has perturbed the provincial government.

"We don't know what Rod found, or even if it's necessarily connected to a ship. What we know is he found an anchor," said Jacques Marc, president of the Underwater Archaeological Society of British Columbia.

What is known is that the anchor is of a design used by fur-trading ships of the Tonquin's era, and that along with the anchor Palm found blue beads of the type used in the trade, Marc said.

Beyond that, he said, any statement that the mystery of the Tonquin has been solved is premature.

The Tonquin, a 30m vessel built in the East River, New York, shipyard of Adam and Noah Brown, was launched by John Jacob Astor as part of his grand commercial scheme to loosen the grip that the British and Russians had on the Pacific fur trade. In the process Astor established the first permanent American colony in the far West, Astoria.

The Tonquin's voyage -- most famously documented by Washington Irving's 1836 book Astoria -- occurred at a time when the Pacific Northwest might as well have been the moon. While the coast was well traveled by trading ships, it was only six years after Lewis and Clark first reached the Pacific, and the interior remained a dark mystery.

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