The test of any Basque chef is cod pil-pil, where the fish is cooked in a garlic sauce until an opaque emulsion is formed.
The fame of the Basques for their cookery is rivalled by their reputation for forming close-knit clubs. Indartzu is one of around 20 txokos in Bilbao, the earliest of which was formed some 60 years ago.
"Membership is currently limited to 107. When one member dies, his membership is offered to his son," said Edu. "If a new member wants to join, he has to be approved by the board. We currently have a waiting list of around 10 members."
Politics of food
Many of Bilbao's txokos came into being during the 1939-1975 dictatorship of General Francisco Franco, when Basques used the fraternities as a secret forum to discuss nationalist politics.
Times have changed. With the Basque country still troubled by the violence of armed separatist group ETA, the txoko prefers to avoid "difficult" members who discuss politics.
"There are people of all political persuasions here but we try not to talk about politics. This is purely to enjoy the company of friends," Edu said. "We do not want disagreements."
But as so often in the Basque country, political troubles invaded private life. The txoko had to be evacuated before the card game was finished as a bomb scare emptied central Bilbao.
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