Leave the wrinklies at home when you take your trip to Penghu, a prime R n' R getaway for water sports enthusiasts, or the average weekend adventurer.
Though there is plenty to see for the culture vultures -- such as 300-year-old banyan trees and more temples than any other county in Taiwan, quaint views and plenty of camera shots -- Penghu shines most brightly as an activity center for the full range of water sports.
PHOTO: JULES QUARTLY, TAIPEI TIMES
Penghu is the largest in an archipelago of 64 islands lying in the middle of the Taiwan Strait and sees itself as poised to take a slice of the international activity holiday action, with its fine shell-sand beaches, pristine waters and sunshine in the summer months. Penghu's other asset is wind, which blows across the Strait, whipping up big waves and providing plenty of sport for windsurfers.
It's a clean place, almost tidy. There aren't even any mosquitoes. And the environment is unspoiled. From the compact airport to the main drag in Makung, a city of 65,000 people, Penghu has its own flavor, distinct from the pace and smoke of other tourist destinations in the country.
So, while some dudes get away from it all and stay down on the beach with their tents, intent on the surf and nothing else, most locals and international tourists arrive with a package deal of flight, hotel and choice of activities.
They get bussed out to a boat in the morning and sent to a beach for waterpark-type rides on banana boats, a yellow inflatable that you ride as its whisked around behind a jetski. And other fun activities that involve lifejackets and end up with a little splashing around in the shallows of Chihpei Island. Here, lifesavers are on hand, but there is little regulation of other activities on the island.
Some of the water sports activities seem haphazard -- jetskis and powerboats duel in the shallows -- and accidents do occur, as the many hospitals on the island confirm. So, beware of cowboy operators.
Eric Chuang (
Interestingly, the assistant at the central tourism bureau on Chunghsiao East Road in Taipei confirmed this and therefore could not recommend the names or numbers of anyone offering water sports activities in Penghu. "We couldn't do that, it would be illegal," she said.
The Penghu County Government is more in tune with the government's exhortations to go out and sell the island to tourists, it seems. The North Sea Tourist Service Center (see details in sidebar) is helpful and basically, as far as taking part in activities in Penghu, the sky's the limit.
If you want to ride buggies across the sand dunes as the sun goes down, you can do it. If you want to go diving you only have to ask. If you want to go up in a hanglider, or down in a parachute, you can.
There are in fact plenty of reputable captains of boats who can be hired for trips or fishing, and surf and sail shops that can pass on information about winds and tides and places to go. There are PADI and other approved diving instructors and there's no problem renting out anything from fins, to racing bikes. Hotels and tourist information will hook you up.
Alex Huang (
"There's not as many people as Thailand. It's a little bit more intimate," Platt said. "I've been to the Gold Coast for the water sports, which was awesome. Here, it's a different culture. It's beautiful and quiet and I like to exercise and work out, so this is cool."
Huang said he was recommended to visit by a friend who said it was quite international.
"It's pretty modern and the water's clean and the water sports are good. You can do a lot for a little money," he said.
Though recently blighted by SARS -- tourism figures have suffered a 36 percent drop compared with last year, putting a dent in the healthy annual growth in tourist traffic over the past 10 years -- Penghu is bouncing back with special discounts on hotels and package holidays.
Visit in summer, if you can, when the islands are bathed in a saturated light that makes amateur photographers go weak at the knees. It's also when the majority of the funpark-type water sport activities and diving take place.
Playing in Penghu and what to do
Windsurfing: Said to be one of the best places in the world to go windsurfing, Penghu's greatest advantage in this respect is the northeasterly winds that whip across the Strait. Government assistance has established the island as a stop-off place on the Asian Windsurfing tour and local and international organizations have quickly capitalized, providing facilities and instruction. Liquid sports rental has been renting out boards and rigs since 1994 in Kuan Ying Ting. Tel: (06) 926 0361; Fax (06) 926 0416. E-mail: alex@windsurf-penghu.com
Sailing: After a decade of vigorous promotion by the Penghu County Sailing Commission, the island has become a go-to place for sailors, especially those who crew lightweight boats. The improving national team is based on the island and though it did not shine at last year's Asian Games, the National Council for Physical Fitness and Sports is pouring in money to make it competitive the for 2008 Olympics in China. Last October, Taiwan held its first ever Olympic-class sailing competition, the Taiwan 49er Grand Prix in Penghu. There is a Sailing Center in the principal sailing area of Kuan Ying Ting, conveniently located near Makung.
Surfing: Penghu's seas can generate enormous swells that can test the best, but most surfers congregate in Kuan Ying Ting and take advantage of flatter waves in the harbor area, or take trips around the islands where the surf's up.
Dolphin and whale spotting: The nice lady at the Penghu Tourism Office said there was no more whale watching because the pod that had been kept in the area through regular feeding had disappeared. Dolphins, however, can still be seen in the winter and spring seasons, and off the seashore at Sha Kang and Hsi Yu. Fish watching from glass-bottomed boats, shell collecting and oyster harvesting (going to a farm and pulling up lines with attached bivalves) are popular activities for families and tourists, who enjoy the barbecue and noodle soups afterwards. Many locals can be found at low tide harvesting clams and mussels. Trips can be arranged through Yang Kuo-pao (
Fishing: Grouper, sea bream, shark and other big-game fish can be caught in Penghu's waters. The best idea is to charter a boat with a knowledgeable captain. The night fishing trip for squid is less exotic than it sounds, though a big sky full of shooting stars can make up for this. Ou Chen-chang (歐振昌) runs a boat, call (06) 921 0250, or arrange a trip through your hotel.
Snorkeling and Scuba diving: Abundant coral reefs are home to thousands of different types of tropical fish and the clarity of the sea makes Penghu a first-rate diving destination. Make sure your diving instructors are approved by PADI or another reputable organization. See Liquid sports rental, above.
Chipei Island: For general horsing around in the sea and on the beach, the island has a holiday center, with rows of air conditioned beach huts that can be hired if you wish to spend more than a day. A range of activities can be enjoyed on the island, or islands nearby, including paragliding, hangliding, power boating, water skiing, banana boating and blazing across the sand dunes in a sand buggy. Arrange through your hotel, travel agent, or call Chihpei Sea Amusement Center (06) 993 1251, Chen An-ting (
Birdwatching: Penghu is a stopover point for many of East Asia's migratory birds. Mao Yu Island is a relatively famous seabird reserve that is home to tens of thousands of terns. Boat trips around the island of Ji Shan Yu, Ding Gou Yu and Tie Zhan Yu can also be arranged. More information at Penghu County Wild Birds Association (06) 993 3006.
Cycling: If you can deal with the wind, then cycling around Penghu in a day is a challenge worth taking. Amateur racers like the open roads and long coastal views.
When to go: Some people say Penghu is a place to stay clear of in the winter as there are brutal winds from around October to April. Of course, this is the primary reason many surfers and windsurfers visit. In summer the wind dies down a bit and the weather is dry and the sun's rays are strong, so don't forget the Factor X sunblocker.
Where to stay: There are plenty of mid-range hotels, though it is best to arrange in advance through a travel agent. Many people go straight to Chipei, where there are estates of beach shacks, most with air conditioners. Stays on remote islands can be arranged and there is a large camping area at Hsiaomen Camping and Vacation Area, to the north of Penghu.
How to get there: Taipei's Sungshan domestic airport is the main gateway to Makung, Penghu, though there are flights from Kaohsiung, Taichung, Tainan and Chiayi. Flight schedules change monthly, so it is best to check through a travel agent. A return trip to Penghu used to cost around NT$3,000, but are currently on discount, up to half price.
There are also ships from various smaller ports and Kaohsiung, but people who have tried it under difficult conditions said they wouldn't do it again.
Finally: The North Sea Tourist Service Center (06) 993 30082 is a good source of information, and a Penghu County Police Bureau 24-hour service line has been set up "to ensure the safety of foreign tourists and alien residents" (0934) 080 110.
Penghu County Government tourist Web site
in English: http://www.penghu-nsa.gov.tw/new/english/frame.asp
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