At Pantagruel, everyone knows everyone else. Even newcomers to this cafe quickly become friends with the Hus, the easy-going couple who run the establishment. Pantagruel's clientele, mostly government employees and students in the neighborhood, know the place so well that there's no need for a menu.
"We like our customers to see the cafe as their own home and really make themselves at home after they walk in," said Hu Chao-fa (
Pantagruel is a tiny little place that originally started out as a coffee house. As the number of customers grew, there was also a demand for meals. Hu obliged by providing a variety of beef and pork steaks, and salmon, cod and chicken leg set meals. All are available as set menus with salad, soup, side dishes and mixed grain rice, priced very reasonably at NT$200. Although none of these items are particularly exquisite or exotic, the dishes are popular with customers because they are prepared in such a healthful fashion.
PHOTO: VICO LEE, TAIPEI TIMES
"Our customers come mainly from this neighborhood, stopping by on their way to or from work. Their need is not for something fancy but rather a quick meal that is as clean and nutritious as what they cook at home," said Hu.
Pantagruel refers to the Italian folklore father and son characters famous for their incredible appetite and enjoyment of the pleasures that life has to offer.
"That's what we would like for our customers -- that they enjoy our food and also enjoy their life," Hu said.
Chicken leg with sweet sauce is a pleasant mix of Chinese and French flavors. The chicken is stewed until its outside turns the color of red wine. Although tender, the flesh remains firm, and is healthily devoid of excess fat. Even the meat seems to have a vegetable fragrance.
Most side dishes remain unseasoned, but actually are subtly prepared so that their original flavors come through even more strongly. The fresh vegetables go very well with the generous servings that constitute the main course.
Coffees are the highlight of Pantagruel's offerings. Hu ran one of the five franchises of Aroma, the first Italian coffee chain in Taiwan, a decade ago, and is known to make some of the best coffee in Taipei. Moreover, he has expanded the coffee business in recent years to include a strong export business for roasted beans to Southeast Asia.
Try the cappuccino here, for Hu expertly produces a smooth cup that avoids the heaviness of the milk.
Whether you go to Pantagruel for its coffees or its meals, this quiet little outfit will prove a nice place to wile away a lazy afternoon.
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