Taipei's Liaoning Street night market has long been famous for its cuisine. For downtown office workers who know the area well, the tea houses and diners in the lanes off the main drag offer an even better option -- food that rivals the best from the stalls without the bustling crowds.
Hsi Huan, a newcomer in this area, has quickly established itself as a popular favorite.
"I bought the place because I liked its interior design. People come here because they like the atmosphere. I make dishes that I like myself. Customers come here again and again because they like the food. It's a place where everyone can find something they like, including myself," said Chiou Chun-chi (
Decked out in 1950s decor, Hsi Huan has a goldfish pond at the entrance which can be seen through a window framed with red wood. All the furniture and ceiling fans are in matching wood. Chinese calligraphy adorns one wall, while a delightful assortment of ancient vases and statuettes lends the interior a cosy feel.
The 29-year-old Chiou has been an enthusiastic cook since his college years, dabbling with a mini oven in his dormitory and inviting classmates over to judge his cakes. Having received plenty of encouragement, Chiou soon began to experiment with a wider range of cuisines with the help of recipe books. "Maybe because I've never studied cooking in a certain school, I see ingredients and materials as they are. I just cook them as I like," Chiou said.
Before setting up Hsi Huan five months ago, Chiou worked as a food correspondent for a Taiwanese magazine to broaden his horizons. Consequently, he is full of information about food in Taiwan, and his reputation as an inventor of creative dishes has caused food manufacturers here and in Hong Kong to hire him to make recipes for their products.
Cod in plum sauce is one of the most popular dishes in Hsi Huan, its slightly sweet seasoning with just a hint of sour goes surprisingly well with the tender fish.
Chicken leg in teriyaki sauce is another favorite. The sauce is not like the Japanese original, but lighter and saltier. Carnivores will find the generous serving of chicken very satisfying. All these dishes come in a set with rice, two side dishes, soup, snacks and one drink (NT$225).
Hsi Huan also has excellent cakes, with its chiffons (NT$50) available in a number of flavors. Their texture and taste place them among the best in the country. The melt-in-your-mouth cheese cakes (NT$50) are no less tasty, and you can wash all this down with a tasty cup of Darjeeling tea.
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