Restaurant: Ah Tsai's Restaurant

Ah Tsai provides hearty dishes with plenty of flavor. PHOTO: GAVIN PHIPPS, TAIPEI TIMES

Behind the glitzy BMW motorbike showroom at the junction of Jenai and Chinshan South roads sits a rare slice of old Taipei. Situated in what was once a domestic residence, Ah Tsai's (阿才的店) is a place where punters get to chow down on traditional Taiwanese home-style cooking in a very un-restaurant-like environment.

Filled with old tables and shelves piled high with an extraordinarily assortment of household goods and with its walls bedecked with posters and kitsch art dating from the 1950s, there's no modern swankiness about Ah Tsai's. Instead it looks more like the home of some eccentric hoarder than a restaurant.

According to owner Ah Hua (阿華), who has been plying a roaring trade since he opened for business 14 years ago, the non-eatery feel is what makes the place so popular. "It's like you are entering someone's home rather than a restaurant. This makes for a more relaxing and enjoyable meal," explained one member of staff. "There are no formalities here, it's simply a place in which to eat, drink and talk with friends."

Address: 17, Lane 41, Jenai Rd., Sec. 2, Taipei (臺北市仁愛路二段41巷17號) Telephone: (02) 2351-3326 Open: 5:30pm to 3am Average meal:NT$600 for two Details: No English menu. Credit cards accepted

The food is equally as unpretentious. There are two distinct trends in Ah Tsai's food -- spicy hot and meaty rich. Dishes such as Ah Tsai's special tofu (阿才豆腐) (NT$180), shrimp tofu (蝦仁豆腐) (NT$160) and diced chicken (辣子雞丁) (NT$170) come loaded with chili and will gladden the heart of the most devout fireeater.

Being a Taiwanese restaurant every usable part of every animal appears somewhere on the menu and means carnivores will be in their element. The numerous beef and pork dishes range in price from NT$180 to NT$300, and the mouth-watering beef tendon with vegetables (NT$220) is highly recommended. For those looking for something a bit different, then Ah Tsai's wild boar (山豬肉) (NT$200 and NT$320) with its smoky flavor and crispy rind will probably go down very well.

While there is no English menu, the sight of foreigners staring forlornly at the menu is something the staff have become used to over the years and are always more than willing to help out.

An added bonus is the chance to drink a glass, or two, with the establishment's jovial owner. Ah Hua can be spotted coming a mile away, usually toting a bottle of Taiwan Beer. He will, without invitation, take a seat and raise a glass to the table's occupants.