Restaurant: Aubergine

Few Japanese chain restaurants have succeeded in Taiwan like Aubergine. Friday through Sunday evenings, you'll probably have to wait at least 30 minutes to get one of the small cafe tables at either of the two Taipei locations. Last time I was there, I ran into a Japanese expatriate who has been living in Taipei for seven years. "I've been to a lot of Japanese curry places since I've been here, and this one's really pretty good," he said.

He eats there fairly often, and from talking to the manager, who easily picked out the regulars, greeting some as they walked in, I gathered that he's not alone. The reason, as with any chain restaurants, is consistent application of a successful formula.

The curry is thick, which is typical of Japanese curry, and comes in five levels of spiciness. These five grades are actually made by the measured mixing of two master batches, one mild (level 1) and one very spicy (level 5).

For the basic set, there are six options: beef, pork, chicken, vegetable, cheese (all NT$220) and seafood (NT$260). The meats are of good quality and are mixed with the curry just prior to serving.

The menu offers an interesting and heavily annotated history of curry. The trail begins with the British East India Company in the 17th century, which exported curry back to Europe and then eventually on to the outwardly receptive Meiji Japan in the 18th century, where it was first consumed as a delicacy before becoming relatively common fare.

Sets include a decent side of green salad, a good cup of onion soup, a plate of butter rice and a choice of beverages that includes small glasses of real mango or grapefruit juice in addition to the standard coffee or tea. Except for a few premium meats -- roasted short ribs (NT$500/set), BBQ baby back ribs (NT$450/set) and roast chicken terriyaki (NT$430/set) -- the menu pretty much ends there. Beverages are reasonable, with Taiwan beer at NT$60 and Japanese beer at NT$70.

The only complaint I've ever heard about Aubergine is that the vegetable curry is a little bit less than a bellyfull, a problem the other sets don't have, especially if you pay NT$20 extra for a strip of melted gouda cheese across the top.

Japanese curry is rather like hamburgers, a food genre that can be really good but is limited by being forever common.

But what makes Aubergine uncommon in Taipei is the lack of genuinely good competition. That's why it stands out. That's why you'll have to leave your cell phone number with the maitre d' and browse shops for a while as you wait half an hour for a table on any weekend or holiday.