There is no shortage of steak or grill establishments in Taipei, and although in the upper price range quality is relatively good, there is plenty of room for improvement. So the opening of Robin's, a comfortable grill and lounge in the B2 level of the Grand Formosa Regent gave rise to considerable expectation.
Walking into the plush interior certainly fosters expectation, and small touches such as a sprig of rosemary held in the napkin ring are really quite delightful. It also indicates the conceptual influences are much closer to the old world than the new. So it is unsurprising looking at the menu to see many East-West combinations, predominantly in the use of Japanese-inspired dishes such as seared tuna and wasabi mashed potatoes. We are looking at designer cooking, with even dishes as simple as a filet steak and grilled king prawn stacked up in a pyramid along with the single stick of giant asparagus and nuggets of other vegetables.
While this is attractive, it is rather too formal and has all the oomph of last year's fashion. The quality of the food itself is outstanding, but for the niche that Robin's is clearly aiming for, this is not quite enough. For this reviewer, a dish such as the filet steak with king prawn fell unhappily between big-plate no-frills steak and vegetables and some exotic morsel for a Japanese teppanyaki grill.
The reason for this uncertainty might be because Robin's does actually incorporate a teppanyaki section with a slightly different menu. Is it trying to be all things to all people, a sin to which hotel restaurants are particularly prone? While Robin Liu, the senior service director of the Formosa Regent after which the restaurant is named, brings an impressive resume to the enterprise, as a steakhouse, there is a lack of heartiness that detracts from the overall experience. This is exemplified by the consomme served in paper, which was overly clever and much too precious.
Having said this, the quality of the materials used in the cooking cannot be faulted. Either for entre or main course, the rare seared Ahi tuna is highly recommended, but even with its excellent flavor and texture, there is a desire for other effects. Perhaps this Japanese simplicity just didn't jibe with a more traditional idea of what a steak house should be, and for those in search of elegance, Robin's has plenty to offer.
The establishment has the advantage of a highly professional and friendly wait staff, comfortable seating and decor that is simple while hinting at luxury, which all add together for an effect of expensive good taste.
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