Fri, Sep 06, 2002 - Page 19 News List

Restaurant of the week: Herbs

Address: 32, Lane 11, Loli Rd., Taipei (北市樂利路11巷32號)
Telephone: (02) 2732-3255
Open: 11:30am to 1am, 11am to 1am on weekends
Average meal: NT$300 for brunch; NT$360 for lunch; NT$550 for dinner; NT$250 for a late-night snack
Details: Chinese and English menu. Credit cards accepted.

By Vico Lee  /  STAFF WRITER, WITH AGENCIES

Herbs' good taste is found more in its decor than its cuisine.

PHOTO: DAVID VAN DER VEEN, TAIPEI TIMES.

The most impressive thing about Herbs is its stylish exterior and interior designed with the motif of nature and trees. Tables are immaculate black-and-white while the floor, chairs and wall decorations are of different shades of wood brown. Adding to the cozy and refreshing atmosphere is a small fish pond and surrounding garden where it's easy to forget you're in downtown Taipei. Ethnic-flavored lounge music is played during the daytime to serve as a delightful contrast to the pastoral interior.

Open for just two months, Herbs' interesting building has attracted much media attention. Upstairs is where the owner, an interior designer specialized in pubs and restaurants, works. Among his portfolio is the Villa, Herbs' adjacent lounge covered in wine red and designed with Chinese motifs.

Herbs prides itself on the dozen kinds of herbs it grows. A variety of Mediterranean herbs -- rosemary, basil, cilantro, parsley, mint, dill, fennel, and thyme -- adorn its idyllic balcony on the second floor. The thoughtful staff has set out an introduction to various herbs and how each kind can improve your health. The menu details the little-known effects of parsley for preventing flu, rosemary for relaxing nerves and thyme for strengthening the immune system, among others, and is an nice guide for health-conscious diners.

Herbs' dishes are "part Italian, part French, but all house inventions," said Bruno Tseng (曾嘉銘), the restaurant's manager. With five experienced cooks in the kitchen, Herbs offers many innovative dishes you can rarely find elsewhere.

Stuffed stinky tofu with basil and cheese is a popular dish that is only available during late-night snack time (10pm to 1am). For tea time, the combination barbecue chicken with herbs, caesar salad and shell fish soup is a popular choice.

The dish's bright colors look nice on the table. Another of Herbs' interesting original dishes is acorn breaded prawns, available only during lunch. Covered in prilla and acorn crumbs, the prawns are deep-fried to acquire a shiny orange and then dressed with Japanese ginger sauce. Balsamic fish, a dinner hour dish, blends shellfish and shrimp to create a rich taste. It goes well with the light and aromatic mixed vegetable soup.

For dessert and drinks, Herbs recommends kahlua chocolate cheesecake (NT$110). There are many virgin cocktails and herb teas to add to your health.

As the restaurant is increasingly popular, you may want to make a reservation before going, especially for dinner.

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