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Restaurant of the week: Kichi 吉庵

By Vico Lee
STAFF REPORTER
Friday, Jul 05, 2002, Page 19

Kichi's mixed sushi is a nice sampling of the various kinds available. PHOTO: DAVID VAN DER VEEN, TAIPEI TIMES

Located in a quiet alley off the bustling food haven of Ta-an Rd, Kichi is a far cry from the plethora of Japanese restaurants in the shopping area of Chunghsiao E. Rd. Focusing on his mission of providing the most authentic sushi cuisine in Taiwan, Kichi's Japanese owner, Hayashi Hiroyuki, spends very little time promoting the restaurant. If you show a genuine interest in the art of sushi, the serious but helpful staff will spare no effort in introducing you to "the way of sushi."

Trained in sushi-making in Osaka sushi restaurants for 10 years, Hiroyuki later worked in various restaurants in the US, Indonesia and Singpore. Hiroyuki's five-year stint in Nakashima Fishery in Japan turned him into an expert in fish. He doubles as Kichi's chef, taking meticulous care of its various fish dishes.

First of all, "Wasabi is always placed at the front of the plate," said Liu Wen-chien (劉文欽), manager of Kichi. In Japan, the meal sort of follows a sequence. "First people order sashimi, followed by some side dishes they can share, and then comes the main course -- a large plate of all kinds of sushi," Liu said.

Kichi also suggests diners savor the genuine flavor of fish, many imported from Japan, by using only a little bit of wasabi and soy sauce. "Different kinds of fish have different sweetness and fragrance. The common practice in Taiwan of drenching the sashimi deprives it of natural flavor," Liu said.

Bigger is not necessary better in Kichi, Liu said, because "different kinds of fish need to be sliced into different thickness to taste best. Many diners here believe that they get extra value for big chunks of fish. But that does not make the fish taste better," Liu said.

All the meticulous preparations exclude machinery. "Using hands instead of machines can better ensure that the rice pile is kneaded to exactly the extent when it will come loose once in your mouth. That is the highest achievement for a chef," Liu said.

There are more than 30 kinds of fish on Kichi's sushi menu, with prices ranging from NT$30 to NT$120. Many of them are not available elsewhere. Kichi recommends flounder (NT$120) and sea eel (NT$120) for adventurous diners. As for sushi rolls, tuna with scallions (NT$120) is a favorite of many customers. The bits of scallion combine well with tuna belly to create both a cripsy and smooth taste.
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