The Olive Tree Mediterranean Restaurant on the second floor of the boutique-style Inter-Continental Taipei opened the middle of last year with the desire to provide a selection from the diverse cuisine of the Mediterranean coast. This ambitious project needed fine-tuning, so after a period in which the restaurant was used as the hotel's functions kitchen, it has now reopened to the public. The menu is a little more conservative than before, according to F&B manager Carlton Huang
"The emphasis is probably more French now, as this style is most acceptable to local tastes, but we also want to introduce new flavors to our guests," Huang said. But having said that, the best way to start a meal at the elegantly informal Olive Tree is with a selection of home-baked herb breads dipped in olive oil, which sets a somewhat Italian note.
For an appetizer, you can't go wrong with the half dozen baked Burgundy snails, which are beautifully tender and made luscious with copious garlic and herb butter.
On a bolder, less conventional note, Huang recommends the fish soup flavored with Pernod and the Moroccan braised lamb shank, which is served with a deliciously chewy saffron risotto. Portions are hearty and are excellent value at NT$220 and NT$560 respectively. Lamb shank, a dish not easily available in Taipei, is firm yet tender, and while not immediately recognizable as North African, is exotically but lightly spiced and happily devoid of any greasiness. Other dishes that carry the "chef's recommendation" mark include the Spanish paella and bouillabaisse.
For the less adventurous, Olive Tree offers a lunch and dinner set menu and the staples of grilled beef and pan fried fish. Despite the smallish menu, there are dishes to suit all tastes. There is also an excellent appetizer selection, salad bar and desert and fruit trolley for those partaking of the set menu.
The tiled floor and earth colors provide a vaguely Mediterranean atmosphere. Widely spaced tables provide plenty of privacy, and Olive Tree is comfortable enough to sit around over coffee and desserts, the general feeling of casual comfort reinforced by efficient professional service from the friendly staff. All together, Olive Tree manages to provide an excellent dining experience for a reasonable price.
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