Fri, May 17, 2002 - Page 10 News List

Restaurant of the week: Ching Xiang 慶祥

Address: 147, Anho Rd Sec. 2, Taipei (北市安和路二段147號)
Telephone: (02) 2378-0258
Open: 11am to 2pm, 5pmto 9pm
Average meal: NT$200
Details: Chinese menu. English menu coming soon. Credit cards not accepted

By Vico Lee  /  STAFF REPORTER

Birds cut from carrots add atmosphere and taste good, too.

PHOTO: DAVID VAN DER VEEN, TAIPEI TIMES

Anho Rd may be one of the most up-market areas in Taipei, but that doesn't mean you can never get your money's worth there. If you are not into pompous facades and faux grandeur, Ching Xiang is a nice place to have good Hakka and Sichuanese cuisine. The frequent flow of Japanese tourists staying in neighboring Far Eastern Plaza Hotel testifies to Ching Xiang's attraction, which comes from genuinely good food instead of expensive decor.

Chef Wu has run the restaurant for three years, before which he worked as either a cook or restaurant manager for more than 30 years. At Ching Xiang, he wears both hats. In times of recession, Wu said, this is a way to survive without resorting to using substandard ingredients at the expense of the quality of the food.

Despite the restaurant's no-frills interior, there's one thing really spectacular to it -- the menu. There's a category for virtually everything -- from cold plates, tofu and tapanyaki to hotpot. The "egg" section alone lists nine dishes, which is "just part of what we make. If there's any other kind of egg dish you can think of, just tell us. The menu's flexible," said Wu.

Although the restaurant specializes in Hakka and Sichuanese cuisine with Hakka stir-fry its most popular item, Wu, a Hakka trained in Sichuanese cuisine, doesn't mind blending the two styles or adding a Taiwanese flavor, "as long as it tastes good," he said.

Hakka-style sauteed fish (NT$380) is both tasty and nicely presented. The fish is sauteed with herbs and chili peppers, which take the excess grease from the fish, creating a light yet delightfully spicy taste. Good timing while cooking gives the fish a crispy gold crust that combines nicely with the herbs on top.

Pork ribs with spring onion (NT$350) also wins a prize for presentation with the generous portion of pork surrounded by a ring of crispy green vegetables. The lean part of the pork has a tender texture while the fat is so smooth it is far from repelling. It's a great find for meat-eaters.

For desserts, Ching Xiang recommends fried yam (NT$150), a good complement to the dishes. Purported to relieve the effects of diabetes, anemia and hypertension, yam's popularity has surged in Taiwan in recent years. The purple rolls are fried until they are crispy on the outside while the filling remains soft and sticky. Sweet but not cloying, it's a choice dessert for health-conscious diners.

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