A procession of faith

In the narrow street amid rice paddies that is Sanchuan Village, Hsichou County, incense-bearing elderly people stand outside their houses, a small alter and a bucket of golden paper by their side.

They are soon joined by other family members, each with a bundle of incense sticks in hand. A distant sound of drumming has called them out.

"Matsu is coming," one elderly man announced to his family.

Headlights of a police escort come into view, followed closely by a dozen wagons. Among the smoke made by residents setting off fireworks are flagbearers dressed in grey robes and coolie hats. Then come the trumpet-blaring guards and 36 more guards carrying Matsu's weapons.

Scattered throughout the procession are pilgrims -- most on foot and others on bikes or even in cars -- all carrying red flags stamped with temple chops and a tassel of yellow paper talismans fastened on top. Each talisman was collected from a temple on the pilgrimage route. With the pilgrim's address written on the side of the flag, it's believed that the talismans will bring blessings to their family.

No effort spared

The procession is on its second leg, from Changhua (彰化) to Hsiluo (西螺), of the annual Tachia Matsu pilgrimage. The procession follows a palanquin bearing a statue of the goddess from Tachia (大甲) in Taichung County to Hsinkang (新港), Chiayi County and back again over eight days. The patron goddess of seafarers, Matsu is believed to have protected the early immigrants on their way from southern China to Taiwan. For many worshippers in Taiwan, no effort is spared to please the goddess.

The strong belief in Matsu, which is the catalyst for the journey, also causes some bumps in the road. The night before the pilgrimage began, the palanquin was held up for six hours in Changhua City.

"This happens almost every year. Although the pilgrimage has a fixed route, many people want Matsu's blessing so much that they try to drag the palanquin out of its way to their own front yard. All the people on the pilgrimage are hospitable to Matsu, but people in Changhua seem to be so in a different way," said Kuo Shao-nan (郭紹南), who came from Taipei on Saturday to set out with the procession on midnight Sunday.

The procession stopped for a mere 10 minutes at Nanyao Temple (南瑤宮), where it was scheduled to spend five hours, leaving many pilgrims without sleep.

Kuo has been in the procession for the last eight years to fulfill a vow. Despite growing up in a family of Matsu worshippers in Hsinkang, Kuo was not personally involved with the belief until eight years ago.

"There was something I wanted very much to achieve but I doubted I could. At elder peoples' suggestion, I walked with the pilgrimage for a day as a form of worship, and that wish came true. Afterwards, for three years, I walked with the procession on foot for the full eight days, as I had vowed," Kuo said. After that, Kuo made another wish for the health of his mother and is now obliged to go on the pilgrimage every year.

Hardest days

The second and third days are the hardest of the journey because the palanquin is in a hurry to get to Hsinkang. The silent pilgrims are soaked in sweat despite the towels tucked under their caps.

"On this leg of the journey two years ago my knee was terribly swollen from walking. I even cried from pain and fatigue, I really wanted to give up, but then I tried telling Matsu that I was on the pilgrimage for my mother and needed her help on the journey. When we arrived in Hsiluo, the swelling disappeared," Kuo said.