The first thing that The Bones has going for it is its memorable name, which sounds more like a horror movie title than a barbecued ribs restaurant. But there's a lot more to this spanking new restaurant than just a cool name.
The Bones opened up in the Tunhua North Road office district less than a month ago in crowded territory for Western-style eateries with the intention of holding its own with its extensive selection of ribs and other greasy-finger, meaty fare. So far, so good, as most of the items on the menu are of reasonable price, significant size and exceptional flavor.
Starting with the ribs, diners are faced with a choice of 13 different types that vary by cut and flavor. The cuts on offer are baby back, spare and St Louis, and the flavors are barbecue, honey garlic, hot and spicy, Mexican and Texan. The flavors are quite distinct and equally delicious, so diners will want to consider their choice carefully, but the most popular ones, according to general manager Jenny Yung (
Two superb dishes are the St Louis cut full rack, which comes with the hot and spicy sauce lathered over generous amounts of tender meat and the thinner Virginee ribs with sweet barbecue sauce.
For those not in the mood to eat pork or get their fingers sloppy, there is a range of juicy, tender steaks and chicken dishes prepared in American Southwest style. Other options include quesadillas, fajitas, wraps and several meal-size salads with a refreshing and slightly citric cumin dressing served on fresh nacho chips.
During lunch hours, an economic alternative to ribs is the NT$250 set menu offering soup, a choice of bacon mashed potato balls, seafood penne, chicken cordon bleu or a rib quesadilla with coffee or tea.
Easily the most eye-opening dish at The Bones, however, is the onion brick, which is a block of breaded, deep-fried onions about the size of a box of tissues and which it is advised should be shared by several people. Other, less heart-stopping side dishes, are the nachos with salsa or the respectable, but not great, clam chowder. During happy hours, between 5pm and 7pm and again between 9pm and 10:30pm, help wash it all down with two-for-one Coors at NT$140.
The Bones follows the model of other American-style chain restaurants with its doting, to not say overbearing, service staff, large portions, family orientation and super-charged atmosphere courtesy of upbeat music (in this case salsa) and ESPN. The only thing lacking are moist tissues to clean fingers with after eating the ribs.
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