The maps, however, are sketchy in the extreme. One advantage they have, though, is that some place names are given in Chinese as well as English. This is crucially important when asking the way. What is mysterious is that this is not done as a matter of course. That there are some maps with no Chinese at all is strange almost beyond belief.
Many foreigners living in Taiwan have been put off acquainting themselves with the high mountains for one simple reason -- the official necessity of obtaining a government permit and a guide when attempting most of the major peaks. The fact that the government department concerned usually needs a week to process applications makes this an even greater obstacle for visitors on a short trip to the island. There is one straightforward solution -- join a group.
As far as Taipei goes, nothing could be simpler. The key is the two stores specializing in hiking equipment on Chungshan Road, just round the corner from Taipei Train Station at the intersection with Chungshiao West Road. Both these places have leaflets listing all such trips for the coming weekends, and there are so many there's a good chance you can choose your date and find a group that exactly suits your needs. It's a sign of the importance of these stores to hikers that the assembly point for many trips is the sidewalk outside their premises.
For around NT$3,000 you will get transportation, nine or so basic meals, and accommodation, in either huts or tents. Also, vitally, you will be included on a list submitted for official approval, as well as having the obligatory registered guide with your party. All obstacles are thereby removed at a stroke. There are also rather more leisurely mid-week excursions. Full information can be found at www.tingsaniou.com.tw. And visitors from abroad can make reservations by e-mailing tingsaniou@dreamer.com.tw a week in advance.
The final page of Punt's guide, described as a "2001 Update," is a mere 233 words pasted onto the inside of the back cover describing the effect on trails of the September 1999 earthquake. More detail would have been useful here.
Brief though this book is, no one can be criticized for not achieving something he never set out to do in the first place. This guide is only intended as a brief introduction, and in view of the current absence of anything comparable, it necessarily serves that simple purpose.
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