Shihlin as raucous as ever

Built on the banks of the Keelung River more than a century ago, the unassuming Tsehsien Temple (慈諴宮) is where today's rambunctious Shihlin night market all started.

It began as a wholesale market for fruit and vegetable dealers from Taipei and Sanchung who off-loaded their goods by boat. The riverbank has moved, but the market continues to thrive.

Tsehsien Temple, like many others along the coasts of Taiwan and southern China, was originally erected in honor of Matsu (媽祖), the patron goddess of fishermen. Today, however, students constitute the overwhelming proportion of visitors to the temple, making offerings and praying despite the clamor coming from the food stalls directly outside.

The students come to pray to images of the Wu Wen Chang (五文昌), or "five patron gods of the educated," which were installed beside the image of Matsu. The students pray for good grades before major exams. After results of the recent Joint University Entrance Exams were released last month, students admitted to their desired colleges could be seen lighting giant red candles with their names on them to express their gratitude.

The youthful crowd sets a vibrant tone for the Shihlin night market, which has dozens of stores offering the latest fashions and providing inexpensive everyday goods for pennywise students.

The market stretches from the Chiantan MRT Station down Chiho Road to Futeh Street and into the surrounding alleys and small streets. The market is the largest in Taiwan with over 500 shops and stalls, displaying a dizzying variety of goods, including record shops, gift shops, comic book stores, brand-name clothing outlets, as well as the obligatory traditional foods and snacks.

Roaring business compels most shops and food stalls to open as early as 4pm. As night sets in and wave after wave of customers descend upon the market, visitors may find themselves rubbing shoulders with over 10,000 people, especially on weekend nights.

Gourmands can start at the makeshift food court set up opposite the temple under an iron roof, where many of the market's most famous food stalls are located. Many of the stalls have been in operation for several decades and the time-proven quality of their food accounts for the massive crowds that file through the labyrinthine courtyard. The stifling heat from the stoves in the poorly ventilated space may be off-putting in hot weather, but the powerful fragrance of the tepanyaki, stir-fried squid and congee that fills the air, and the joy in ultimately tasting these foods make the struggle more than worthwhile.

The snack that has become almost synonymous with the Shihlin night market goes by the interesting name ta ping bao hsiao ping (大餅包小餅), which means small pastries wrapped in big pastries. Chang Chi Ta Ping Bao Hsiao Ping is open 24 hours a day selling the deep-fried, crispy bread wrapped inside a round, soft and chewy pastry. There is a variety of fillings to choose from, including salty ones like curry and chilies, and sweet ones like honey and date paste.

The snack is said to have originated when two stall owners set up in front of the Tsihsien Temple selling bread. One sold chewy round pastries while the other sold crispy deep-fried bread. One day, while they were having a chat, it occurred to them to experiment by wrapping the one's smaller bread inside the other's bigger bread. The innovation proved immediately popular and led to the "merger" of the two stalls. The present lineup of flavors is the result of three generations of improvement on the fillings.