Once infamous for its maximum-security prison rather than celebrated for its' stunning scenery, Green Island (
The island, which is located 33km -- 60 minutes by sea or 12 minutes by air -- west of Taitung City sees it's population of 3,500 more than double on any given weekend. On average the population of the island swells to nearly 9,000 on Friday evenings. According to one local restaurateur, on average 6,000 visitors descend on the tiny island every weekend.
Weekend trippers
PHOTO: GAVIN PHIPPS, TAIPEI TIMES
The island's grim past now seems forgotten. Taiwan's notorious penal colony, Oasis Village (
Today's visitors to Green Island have freedom on their minds rather than confinement. The freedom to enjoy a few hours of snorkeling, a trek along mountain trials or simply lounge around in one of the island's many picturesque coves are just some of the reasons hoards of people now voluntarily visit Green Island.
Life moves at a snail's pace on the island. There are no 7-11 convenience stores or nightclubs and restaurants finish business by about 10pm. Later into the night there's little to do but sit on the boardwalk and stare at the stars or go for a jaunt around the island on a scooter under the moonlit sky.
PHOTO: GAVIN PHIPPS, TAIPEI TIMES
Lush vegetation borders the handful of narrow winding roads that crisscross the island, each one of which affords tourists spectacular panoramic views at every turn.
Be it a view of the island's perilous rocky coastline or mountainous, flora-rich hinterland, there's so much to see that at times it's impossible to decide on which vista to visually absorb first.
An abundance of fauna roams the island's interior and a multitude of insect's buzz through its skies. While it's hard to avoid brightly colored butterflies and the hum of cicadas, Green Islands' most famous beast can prove quite elusive, however.
PHOTO: GAVIN PHIPPS, TAIPEI TIMES
Once hunted to near extinction, the sika deer (
Nevertheless, every evening at dusk, tourists can be spotted camped out at along the side of the mountain road that runs south of the settlement of Kungkuan (公館) waiting to catch sight of a sika deer. After about 30 minutes of staring into blackness many would-be deer watchers return to their hotels, however, realizing that the only sika deer they are going to catch sight of is of the cooked variety and comes replete with barbecue sauce, spring onions and chili.
While venison appears in some shape of form on the menus of nearly every eatery on Green Island, the animal is a protected species. The number of sika deer slaughtered to cater to the whims of tourists' stomachs is now controlled by the Forestry Bureau.
PHOTO: GAVIN PHIPPS, TAIPEI TIMES
Reefs, beaches and scooters
While the sika deer of Green Island might successfully avoid human contact, the same can not be said of the vast coral reefs that lay in the shallow waters only a few meters from the shoreline. These reefs are reportedly some of the most pristine and untouched underwater gardens to be found not only in Taiwan but the world, and are understandably one of the island's main tourist attractions.
Every day, hordes of scooter riding tourists decked out in wet suits, life vests and with snorkels hanging around their necks can be seen zooming up and down the coastal road looking for accessible coves from which to enter the water.
PHOTO: GAVIN PHIPPS, TAIPEI TIMES
Three of the most stunning reefs are those at White Beach (大白沙), Shihlang (石朗) and Chaiko (柴口), all of which see hundreds of people entering the water under very loose supervision on a daily basis.
Safety is far from a priority at these snorkeling spots, a fact made only too obvious last weekend when four divers found themselves caught in the strong currents that haunt the seas around Green Island. Three were saved by an air-sea rescue unit, but one, a 47 year-old woman, drowned.
For more experienced swimmers several companies do offer offshore scuba diving. But again, the amount of supervision is minimal. If you opt to go scuba diving on Green Island, then it's probably better to have some experience before jumping off the side of the boat. Prices for scuba diving day trips and sailing times depend on the size of the group.
PHOTO: GAVIN PHIPPS, TAIPEI TIMES
The popularity of the island's reefs has become a rather thorny issue recently. Ecologists and the local community both want to see restrictions on the number of divers allowed to view the coral reefs at any given time.
A recent report compiled by members of the oceanographic department of the National Chungshan University (
According to Professor Soong Ke-yi (
While part of the reason for the 2,000-year-old coral beds' gradual demise is weather related, the report went on to state that a vast amount of the destruction to the bed is in fact manmade.
Although exploring the coral reefs around Green Island makes for a stunning couple of hours, there's not much chance of solitude. One of the best ways to enjoy the island is to venture off the beaten track.
Even though there are several thousand tourists on the 20km2 rock at any given time, there are numerous ways to find isolation in the lush hinterland.
The mountain road that winds its way up to the peak of Huoshao Mountain (
For those wishing to quite literally get lost, more adventurous routes can be discovered. As the mountain route winds its way through valleys and over peaks, there is ample opportunity for detours into the bush without the need to wield a machete.
There are two official paths branching off from the mountain route, one of which takes trekkers to the island's famed hot springs, the other leading to the coastal road 2km north of the hot springs.
Not so serene
While Green Island sounds like an idyllic lost paradise, all is not quite as serene as it appears. Tourists to the island might feel rested after a weekend break, but the locals, however, are beginning to find the island's increasing popularity somewhat of a headache.
Large touring coaches traveling at speeds of over 40kph ply the narrow coastal road that circumscribes the island. And it's almost impossible to escape the whine of scooter engines during the weekends, when tourists make full use of the over 2,000 scooters available for rent.
Not that islanders such as Chen Hsin-chuan (
"A residents' committee has raised plenty of points at numerous meetings with members of the local government," Chen said, as a group of youngsters hurtled past on scooters decked out in diving gear. "We've asked them to restrict the number of motor scooters for rent and have even put forward a proposal which would see scooters phased out and bicycles brought in to replace them. And the buses, well, I don't know anyone who hasn't raised questions over their validity on the island."
According to Chen, the reasoning behind the idea to switch from motorized forms of transportation is twofold. First, it is hoped that a decrease in the number of motorcycles eliminate noise and exhaust pollution. Second, a decrease in motorized transport would reduce the need for the expansions and constant repairs to existing roads.
"It's not as if Green Island is too large an area to cycle round," continues Chen over the whine of scooter engines fading into the distance. "It only takes about 40 minutes to go round the island by motorbike, so it's hardly as if cycling round the island to see the sights in a day is impossible."
Although Chen and fellow members of residents' committee have been pressing for the introduction of bicycles, little action has been taken. The main drag at Chungliao (
One other proposal put forward by the residents' committee aimed at ensuring the island doesn't degenerate into another tawdry Kenting may be seen as slightly draconian. "We'd also like to see the number of tourists allowed to visit the island at any one time limited to say 2,000," Chen continues.
"Of course, the hotel owners, restaurant owners and so on won't like this, but for a few of us this could be the only way to stop the destruction of the reef, the polluting of the environment and the constant noise."
While the limiting of the number of tourists allowed to visit Green Island is probably not going to happen, it is recommended that those wishing to visit Green Island do so sooner rather than later.
The mock up model of a planned marina and surrounding hotel complex and resort that sits in the Green Island Visitors Center opposite the airport, might only be a model today. It could, however, be reality in the not-so-distant future, and looks like it would much to mar the beauty and solitude that can still be found on Green Island.
Getting there and away
By air: The only air service to Green Island is by UniAir (立榮). There are eight flights per day departing from Taitung airport. As the airplane that plies the route only seats 10, book well in advance if traveling on a weekend. A one-way ticket for the 12-minute hop costs about NT$680 depending on when you fly. UniAir can be contacted at (02)2518-5166 in Taipei, or at (07) 791-1000 in Kaoshiung. Flight information is available at http://www.uniair.com.tw.
By sea: Numerous ferry companies plying the route from Taitung's Dangkang Harbor (當岡漁港). Sailing times are subject to minor changes. Tickets for the 60-minute trip cost around NT$350.
For bookings, contract:
The Star of Green Island (綠島之星) and Eminent Dragon (龍豪): (089) 672-819
Golden Star (金星遊輪): (089) 281-477
Changan (長安): (089) 672-933
Divine Shores: (占岸) (089) 672-595
Where to stay
Hotel rooms range from NT$800 to NT$5,000 plus, but facilities are generally rather basic. Prices also vary according to season.
Scooters can be rented for around NT$350 per day. If you want to bicycle around the island, you are better off bringing your own bicycle.
Some accommodation options are:
Lu Tao Hotel (旅島飯店) (089) 672-243/672-658
Kai Hsing Hotel (凱薪飯店) (089) 672-033/672-685
Tong Yang Hotel (統祥大飯店) (089) 672-828
Kuo Min Guest House (國民旅社) (089) 672-244/672-314
An alternative to staying in a hotel is to camp. The Green Island campground is located about five minutes south of the center of Chungliao (中寮村) and is free. There are showers, toilets and vending machines located in the camping area.
Reef watching
The island is full of stores that rent snorkeling equipment. Many of the stores charge NT$350 for gear rental. They will take you to a spot if you ask, otherwise they will just point you in the right direction.
Some options for snorkeling or scuba diving include:
Tung Lung Diving (東龍潛水). Nanliao (南寮村), 26-3, Yukang Road (南寮村漁港路26-3號). Telephone (089) 672-010.
Tung Hsing Diving (東興潛水). Chungliao (中寮村), 15, Chungliao Road (中寮村15號). Telephone (089) 672-316.
Hui Lung Diving (輝隆浮潛). Chaiko (柴口), 37, Kongkuan Road (公館路37號). Telephone (089) 671-023.
What to buy
With the exception of deer antler wine and dried venison, there are very few souvenirs to be found on Green Island.
One place to pick up an interesting gift, however, is at the island's minimum-security prison (台灣綠島技能訓練所) -- not to be confused with the maximum-security facility (台灣綠島監獄).
The prison holds close to 200 inmates at present, all of whom are learning a skill and awaiting parole. There is an art gallery here, where works created by the prisoners are sold at reasonable prices.
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