Shei-Pa offers beauty and challenge

We drove to Wuling Farm (武陵農場) overnight with a small group of hikers from the Hsinchu Mountain Climbing Association (新竹登山協會), a well-known mountain climbing club in Taiwan based in Hsinchu City(新竹市) not far from the Shei-Pa National Park (雪霸國家公園). To get to Wuling though we had to drive up and around the central mountain chain via Taipei.

Our itinerary was a busy one that included getting to the summit of Mt. Hsueh (雪山, Snow Mountain) -- which at 3,886m, is the second highest mountain in Taiwan -- camping out at the Jade Pool (翠池), a small pond located on the far side of the mountain, and then coming down again via Mt. Chihchiayang (志佳陽山), an alternative southern route that would take us in a loop to Lishan (梨山).

On our first day the weather was fine and we all enjoyed the nice easy walk from Wuling to the first hut, the Kikuru shelter located at an altitude of 2,463 metres. The varied plant species, changing at every turn, kept things interesting.

The road broadens

After a chilly picnic on the east peak, we headed to our lodge. Though rudimentary, the "369" hut on Mt. Hsueh is located at a beautiful spot near the mountain's east peak, backed by Silverwood or "White forest" -- fir trees stripped by forest fire -- and commanding a spectacular view of the valley below.

From our dry, if rather cold, evening perch on Mt. Hsueh, we watched as distant lightening backlit columns of cumulus clouds.

On the second day, in fine morning sunshine, we climbed up behind the "369" hut, and walked through a mossy fir forest littered with fallen logs. The group, including many veteran local hikers, split into a loose string, everyone going at their own pace. As the path wound up behind the lodge, early morning panoramic views opened before us. "It really opens the mind," was one apposite comment made.

As we walked on, the took a turn into a valley where rhododendrons and mountain juniper, gnarled by the wind, stood all around. The main peak was not far away.

From this mountain valley, it was a three-hour hike to the summit. The final section of the climb was dry and desolate, like a desert, though the occasional bird flew above hinting at mountain wildlife. The central mountain range stretched behind us.

Arriving at the summit, we finally got a reward for our strenuous effort in the form of a clear view of the visually striking Tapa Peak (大霸尖山)and Mt. Pintien (品田山) to the north, and the steep-sided valleys of Mt. Hsueh to the south. Even at this high point, flowers were in bloom, clinging to the loose rocks. Rock types in evidence included sandstone, shale, and slate. To the south, clouds buffeted up against folded rock strata and high-angle reverse faults. It felt great to be there.

At the summit of Snow Mountain photos were taken for posterity before the second half of the trip began.

Skipping down a steep scree slope, the group soon arrived at a wooded area that seemed tailor-made for camping. Jade Lake is the highest lake in Southeast Asia, though, with its low water level, it barely qualifies as a lake at all.

Jade Lake is about as isolated as a place can be. Bounded by steep mountains on all sides, it is a place to rest before heading over to Tapa Peak. When we where their, we had the chance of watching a wild Taiwan Mihou monkey swing from branch to branch at the edge of the forest. It disappeared on being approached leaving us completely alone.