Fri, May 04, 2001 - Page 10 News List

Hsimenting---Taipei's Left Bank

By Jules Quartly  /  CONTRIBUTING REPORTER

Lots of colorful clothing and party accessories are available in shops around Hsimenting.

Hsimenting (西門町) is fast, entertaining, consumer/lifestyle-oriented and vaguely alternative. Behind this trendy exterior, the love hotels, piano bars, hong-bao chang (song and dance clubs) that provided entertainment to a previous generation remain. Then there are KTVs, MTVs, bars and snooker halls that provide a raffish, bohemian edge. It is Taipei's equivalent of Carnaby Street or Soho in London, the Left Bank in Paris or Tokyo's Shinjiku.

1. Louis Military Surplus (路易士軍品)

Louis didn't like military service but has always loved military gear. So, he started a shop that caters to both the connoisseur and tourist. Of particular interest is the Russian cosmonaut's helmet for NT$15,000, the Quan Luc Vietcong Hoa skull and crossbones flag and inscribed US Vietnam-era zippo lighters. 8 Neijiang St. (內江街8號), tel: (02) 2370-1691.

2. Red House Cinema Museum

(紅樓電影博物館)

Built in 1908 and is now a third-level heritage site, the Old Red Cinema is currently being renovated and will open next year to the public. 10 Chengtu Rd. (成都路10號), tel: (02) 2382-2680.

3. Fong Da Coffee. (蜂大咖啡)

This is an old-style coffee shop, full of conversation, cigarette smoke and the smell of history. First established in 1956, it looks and feels part of that era. Fong Da is a friendly and enjoyable place to sit and talk, with similar prices as Starbucks, but a better ambience. No. 42, Chengtu Rd., tel: (02) 2371-9577.

4. Shin Tung Yang (新東陽)

One of a chain of stores famous for beef jerky. It also offers a range of deli goods and imported foods. 74 Hsining Rd. (西寧南路74號), tel: (02) 2312-1725.

5. Taipei Tienhou Temple. (台北天后宮)

Right in the middle of the tumult of Hsimenting, the Tienhou Temple's courtyard offers some respite for the weary shopper. There is a small fountain, plants and a few seats. All around are traditional carvings, lanterns, statues, people wrapped up in their prayers and incense smoke. It's a scene that has probably changed little in the last 100 years. The temple was relocated to its present site in 1943 to make way for a road, which forced it to expand upward giving it a slightly chaotic appearance. 51 Chengtu Rd. (成都路51號), tel (02) 2331-0421.

6. Royal Castle Hotel (成都大飯店)

Rates range from about NT$1,500 for a night to NT$500 for a couple of hours of "rest." This place is clean and safe, strategically situated and approved by the Hotel Association of the ROC. 115 Chengtu Road (成都路115號), tel: (02) 2383-1123.

7. Crazy Horse (瘋馬)

A comprehensive entertainment center which includes food and beverage, pool and an MTV, all operating around the clock. At the MTV you can enjoy in comfort all the movies you missed at the theater, plus drinks, snacks and no need to clean up afterward. Some MTVs have a reputation as hotbeds of sin, fronts for prostitution and under-age drinking. According to Akira, who works for Crazy Horse, this is not that kind of place, but "you can do what you like until the movie is over." The pool hall is great for before or after your movie. It has 60 tables, ranging from matchplay to standard (the Olhausen costs NT$2.9 a minute, the Olio NT$1). The snooker hall is nicely lit and well maintained. Service is efficient and friendly and there is a menu of drinks and meals. Busy times are on a weekend afternoon, but you can usually get a table straightaway. B1, 36 Hsining S. Rd. (西寧南路36號B1), tel: (02) 2314-2099 or 7F and 8F, 70 Hsining S. Rd. (西寧南路70號8F), tel: (02) 2331-4277. Open 24 hours.

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