Fri, Apr 06, 2001 - Page 10 News List

Sanhsia -- The three gorges of Taipei County

Located amid green hills and home to a famous temple, this small town in Taipei county offers a glimpse of the Taiwan of yesteryear

Text and Photos by Steven Crook  /  CONTRIBUTING REPORTER

The Tsushih Temple is a magnet for both locals and tourists.

1. Historical Memorial Museum

(三峽鎮歷史博物館)

This two-story 72-year-old brick building served as Sanhsia Town Hall until 1986. During the Japanese colonial era it was regarded as the most beautiful official building in Taiwan. The museum opened in 1999, and contains permanent displays on the history, culture and customs of Sanhsia, with special sections on the Tsushih Temple and Minchuan "Old" Street. Open 9am to 4:30am; admission is free.

18 Chungshan Rd. (中山路18); tel: (02) 8674-3994

2. Explosion of Fame Offers (一泡而紅)

A wide range of hot and cold teas, juices, papaya milk, puddings and "fruit noodles" (a sweet dessert incorporating beans or pineapple) are offered here, as well as plenty of space to sit and enjoy them. Most drinks cost around NT$25, while nothing is priced above NT$40. A good place to rest your feet between sightseeing sessions.

9 Chungshan Rd. (中山路9號); tel: (02) 8671-0169

3. Sanhsia Market (三峽市場)

This indoors wet market will interest some, though others may find the dismembering of carcasses and butchering of chickens stomach-churning. More edifying is the use of old-fashioned machines to manufacture various kinds of noodles, and the bubbling troughs of bamboo shoots. The streets hereabouts are crammed with vendors and shoppers on weekend mornings. Try the taro waffles or the yam pancakes.

Entrances on Hoping St. (和平街) and Minsheng St. (民生街)

4. Sanhsia Farmers' Association Office

(三峽農會)

Despite its distinctly Japanese styling, this elegant two-story building -- which dates from 1937 and looks as though it has seen better days -- is easy to miss as it is set back from the street and often obscured by a cluster of vendors.

154 Minsheng St. (民生街)

5. Wanfa Ironsmiths (萬發打鐵店)

The hoes, picks, machetes, and cleavers sold here hardly make for good souvenirs, but blacksmiths like Mr Su and his assistant are few and far between in modern Taiwan. Stop by during business hours and you're likely to see metal implements being custom-made and hand-modified the traditional way.

15 Wenhua Rd. (文化路15號); tel: (02) 2671-9876

6. Scent Guarantea (摘香茶趣)

Delicious Asian food, a few Western dishes, quality Chinese teas, and unusual beverages such as Indian latte tea and champagne oolong tea. (See review at left).

166 Fuhsing Rd. (復興路166號); tel: (02) 8674-3555

7. Buses to Taipei

The Blue 19 links Sanhsia and Yingko with Hsinpu (新埔) MRT station; the 278 goes as far as Sungshan Domestic Airport. The 702, 703 and 705 begin and end each journey on the corner of Chunghua Rd. (中華路) and Wuchang St. (武昌街), near Hsimenting.

Very close to the corner of Fuhsing Rd. and Minsheng St.

8. Minchuan "Old" Street (民權老街)

Boasting more than a 100 buildings which date from the final decades of the Qing Dynasty and the early years of the Japanese colonial period (1895-1945), this enchanting thoroughfare has experienced something of a revival in the last few years. Rather like Taipei's Tihua St. (迪化街), one end buzzes with tourists and busy stores, while the other is lined by decrepit houses, several of which are in such a perilous state that only reinforcing girders stave off outright collapse. Souvenir and curio shops are becoming more common, but a few traditional grocers still operate here, plus at least three coffin makers.

9. Tsushih Temple (祖師廟)

To the untrained eye, Sanhsia's prime attraction looks much like many other Taiwanese temples. However, those inclined to take their time and do a little research will see that exceptional craftsmanship has been invested here (though protruding rebars are visible in places). There are finely detailed paintings and carvings; the ornate stone columns feature dragons, birds, squirrels, turtles, fish, serpents, soldiers, sages, generals and gods. Particularly worth seeing is the intricate ceiling of the inner sanctum. The original structure was built in 1769 by settlers from Fujian Province. Damaged by an earthquake in the early 1800s, then razed by Japanese soldiers in 1895, the temple had again fallen into disrepair by the end of World War II. It has been under almost continuous renovation since 1947; for more than three decades, restoration efforts were led by Sanhsia's most famous son, painter and local politician Li Mei-shu (see 15 below). Art aficionados should make the effort to see this temple on a weekday; those who do so will find it as much a working temple as a tourist attraction.

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