Under The Big Tree Restaurant (大樹下)
163 Shenkeng St., Shenkeng township, Taipei County (北縣深坑鄉深坑街136號), tel:(02)2662-5688. Open:9am-8pm; Average meal:NT150; no English menu; credit cards not accepted.
At the top of Shenkeng's tourist-oriented old street, to the left of the unmistakable big tree after which the establishment is named, is the oldest and one of the most popular small restaurants in town.
The menu is simple and offers both small and large portions for most dishes, including chicken, fish, fried noodles and various assortments of vegetables, as well as famous spicy stinky tofu.
The lower prices may come as a consolation -- a large plate of noodles, cabbage and tofu costs only NT$140 -- because the tofu is somewhat overrated. Nonetheless, this is a great place to eat with friends or family, with a wide variety of dishes, including fish, vegetables, soups, noodles and rice. A banquet meal for four costs NT$1,400.
Up to six cooks work the huge vats of tofu and tripe. Steam, flames and noise provide the most interesting diversion to the otherwise spartan decor.
The shop started out as a roadside stall 50 years ago and expanded to its present size about 10 years ago. There are seats for about 200 people and the restaurant is often full on weekends or holidays, having developed into a virtual pilgrimage spot for local tourists who flock to the town. Service is reasonable and the toilets are clean.
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