1 Armory Pub
A favorite of Tainan's expat community and locals alike, the Armory Pub -- so-named because it stands on what used to be part of a large army base -- occupies a two-story building with a small garden out front. Drinking and conversation are the main activities here. There's no space to dance, but food is served.
82 Gongyuan South Rd.
Tel: (06) 226-5800
2 Sanlaoyeh Temple
By Tainan standards this temple is neither large nor especially popular, but the morning market which stretches between it and Chenggung Road fills several narrow lanes and attracts droves of shoppers. Goods for sale range from fruit, vegetables, meat, seafood, traditional snacks and confectionery to cheap clothes and household items. Look for the archway bearing the temple's name on Chenggung Road.
3 Rainbow Japanese Restaurant
Suitable for individuals and groups, this large, clean and perennially popular restaurant offers fine Taiwanese-Japanese cuisine. Set meals cost between NT$70 and NT$150; the more you pay, the more you get. For those who don't like sashimi, the pork steaks in breadcrumbs are a good bet.
249 Chenggung Rd. Tel: (06) 226-3162
4 Wei's Carving Workshop
Located at the mouth of "fortune-tellers lane" and a stone's throw from the War God Temple, the shopowner surnamed Wei -- a third-generation artisan -- and his craftsmen sand and lacquer works as visitors come and go. In addition to the usual wooden figurines of Buddha, Kuanyin and various Chinese deities, the workshop has on display bronze busts of Winston Churchill and Ronald Reagan.
223 Yungfu Rd. Sec. 2 Tel: (06) 211-3929
5 Shanghai Huadu Delicacies
The service here may be somewhat surly and the atmosphere uninspiring, but the food -- Taiwanese, Cantonese and Shanghai cuisine -- is consistently excellent and reasonably priced. The food is best enjoyed if your group numbers four or more.
28 Minchuan Rd. Sec. 2
Tel: (06) 221-6268
6 Soun-tao-fon Antiques Store
Many visitors to Tainan are surprised that, for a city with so much history and so many relics, there are relatively few antique dealers. This store is small, but chock-full of Buddha figurines, carved wooden panels and other curios. The proprietor, Wei Kai-jen, has done research at the National Palace Museum in Taipei.
86 Jungyi Rd. Sec. 2 Tel: (06) 221-6338
7 Karumba
An African-themed bar in a conveniently central location. Drinks here are reasonably priced and the staff are friendly. A good bet when the Armory Pub is overflowing onto the sidewalks. Open from 8pm to 3am.
98 Minsheng Rd. Sec. 1
Tel: (06) 223-5933
8 Tainan Shimen Retail Market
An arcade given over to more than 50 tailors, seamstresses and fabric shops. Some of the shops specialize in wedding gowns, others in business suits, work uniforms or bedding. This rapidly disappearing market (many sections are no longer occupied) shows how people got their clothing in decades past. Main entrance on the corner of Shimen Road Section 2 and Jenghsing Street.
9 Salico
Stocking a very wide, if somewhat expensive, range of Japanese candies, imported chocolates, dried meats, and dried seafood, as well as countless varieties of peanuts, this is a great store to visit if you have the munchies and feel like eating something you've never tried before.
108 Shimen Rd. Sec. 2 Tel: (06) 226-8022
10 Land Bank of Taiwan
Visitors who have seen one too many 300-year-old temples may like to take a look at this monolithic, but graceful bank branch, dating from the Japanese colonial period. Diagonally across the intersection sits the rapidly deteriorating shell of another building from that era, Tainan's first (and long since closed) department store.
28 Jungjeng Rd.
11 Slack Season Tantsi Noodles
One of Tainan's most famous traditional snack vendors (see review at left).
16 Jungjeng Rd. Tel: (06) 223-1744
12 Onion Curry House
Genteel Japanese-style curry house (see review at left).
67 Yungfu Rd. Sec. 2 Tel: (06) 220-3531
13 Chin Wei Pipe Smoker's Shop
Pipe smoking is not a popular pastime in Taiwan, and specialist shops like this one are few and far between. Chin Wei stocks a wide range of pipe tobacco, some unusual lighters, and more than 100 different pipes, including some made of ivory. Most of the wood pipes cost NT$1,000 to NT$2,500.
187 Yoai St. Tel: (06) 225-1768
14 Herbal Teas Vendors
These beverages are not to everyone's taste -- some are quite bitter -- but small cups at both establishments cost just NT$10, and one-liter bottles are available for those who can't get enough of the purportedly healthful tonics.
763 and 775 Shimen Rd. Sec. 1
15 Chingahnah Park
Parking a car in central Tainan is difficult at the best of times, so the parking lot under the park here is probably your best bet. The older, scruffier western segment of the park -- a dull concrete rectangle shaded by a few banyan trees -- is inexplicably the most crowded. Cheap massages (with the recipients sitting upright, fully clothed) are available. Middle-aged and elderly men gather here to play cards, chat, loiter, or watch Chinese chess matches played with deadly seriousness by hard-core enthusiasts.
Bordered by Yungfu Road, Yoai Street and Fuchien Road.
16 Confucius Temple
This temple is the cultural center of old Tainan and should not be missed. Built in 1665, this architectural treasure is justifiably popular with photographers and tourists and is sublimely peaceful even when crowded. Open 8am to 5:30pm every day.
2 Nanmen Rd. Tel: (06) 221-4647
17 Books & Cultural Souvenirs of Taiwanese Heritage
This is a good place to collect information before beginning a sightseeing trip. Well stocked with Chinese-language materials on Taiwan's history and traditions; there are also superb postcards for sale. Open until 9pm.
57 Nanmen Rd. Tel: (06) 220-9192
18 N.D. Coffee Shop
This establishment admits only the svelte and able-bodied, as N.D. stands for "narrow door," and entering involves squeezing through a street-level aperture less than 40cm wide, then climbing a steep, narrow stairwell. The menu and prices are similar to most other coffee shops, but the view -- over leafy Nanmen Road -- is worth the extra effort.
2F, 67 Nanmen Rd. Tel: (06) 211-0508
19 The Green House Delicatessen
Good, reliable Western food and friendly service (see review at left.)
3F, 21 Lane 196 Fuchien Rd. Sec. 1
Tel: (06) 222-4474
20 Lily Fruits Store
In addition to platters of ready-to-eat fruit, this Tainan institution specializes in fresh juices and shaved ice desserts. The ordering form lists more than 100 items, including soybean curd and egg-based puddings, milkshakes and other treats. Open 11am to 11pm, seven days a week.
199 Fuchien Rd. Sec. 1
Tel: (06) 213-7522
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