1 Foundation of Ilan Museum (
This beautiful wooden bungalow, built during the Japanese colonial era, contains a museum detailing the settlement and development of the Ilan area over the past two centuries. Explanations are in Chinese only, but those who can't read a word will still enjoy the photographs and the exquisite tatami-floored interior. The house was completely renovated in 1997, while the Japanese-style garden behind the building is still a work in progress. Open every day except Monday, 9am to noon and 1pm to 5pm; admission is free. On Joucheng South Road, adjacent to the former jail (see below) (舊城南路舊監獄旁).
2 Former Jail (舊監獄)
After China ceded control of Taiwan to Japan in 1895, the new colonial regime decided to relocate Ilan's local government offices to this site. An army base, a dormitory for civil servants and a jail also stood here. A picturesque wooden administration building, one wing of the jail and part of the perimeter remain standing, but much of the site has been cleared to make way for a park. Visitors can look around inside the ex-jail. On the intersection of Chungshan Road and Joucheng South Road (
3 Bank Of Taiwan (台灣銀行)
Unless you need to change money or cash a check, there's no reason to step inside, but take a moment to appreciate the elegant exterior of this building, which dates from the Japanese era. Opposite the former jail on Chungshan Road (
4 Ilan Performing Arts Center (宜蘭縣立文化中心演藝廳)
Ilan's principal cultural venue adjoins Chungshan Park, and boasts a small outdoor stage in addition to a state-of-the-art auditorium. For foreign musicians visiting Taiwan, this is often their only stop on the East Coast. It's also a pleasing piece of architecture. 106 Weyshui Rd. (渭水路106號) Tel: (03) 936-9115; http://www.ylhcc.gov.tw
5 Chungshan Park (中山公園)
A small but well-maintained park frequented mostly by elderly men, many of whom spend their days playing Chinese chess. Main entrance on the intersection of Joucheng South Road and Chongsheng Street (
6 Yuanshan Fish Ball Noodles Vendor (員山魚丸米粉小吃)
Short of driving or taking a bus out to Yuanshan itself, this is one of the best places to enjoy a traditional Ilan County dish. (See review at left.) A foodstall on Kangle Street, near the intersection with Joucheng East Road (
7 Jiu Jiu Steakhouse (久久牛排)
Decent steaks with plenty of seafood options. (See review at left.) 53 Joucheng East Rd. (
8 New Chihshang Lunchbox Store (新池上便當)
Whether or not the rice used is actually from Chihshang (a district in Taitung County famed for the quality of its grain), these meals are filling, tasty and cheap. Pork, chicken and fish options; takeaway only. A good bet if you've a long bus or train journey ahead of you. 73 Joucheng East Rd. (
9 Mig Pub (久保 MIG PUB)
Hip-hop themed drinking hole, featuring spray-paint graffiti on the walls and reasonably priced beer. Open from 6pm until the last customer leaves. 2F, 84 Hsinmin Rd. (
10 Santana Music Restaurant (山塔娜音樂小廚)
The uniformed waiters are polite and professional; the interior is sumptuously decorated; the live music takes the form of solo piano, not rock; and the menu stresses steaks and pasta, with nary a taco in sight. Which begs the question: why is this restaurant named after the legendary Mexican-American guitarist? According to one of the workers, the boss simply thinks it's a cool name. Expect to pay around NT$500 per person for a meal. There are also teatime specials for NT$180. 2F, 42 Joucheng East Rd. (
11 Yoai Department Store (友愛百貨)
No food court, unfortunately, but everything else you would expect to find in a medium-sized department store: men's and ladies' fashions, children's clothes and household appliances. The Barista Coffee branch on the first floor is the only franchise coffee shop in town; there are tables both indoors and out. The Eslite Bookstore in the basement is well-stocked with books and magazines in Chinese, English and other languages, and so not surprisingly is a favorite haunt of Ilan's small foreign community. 50 Joucheng East Rd. (
12 Virtuous Lotus Vegetarian Food (合德素食)
The interior may be a little gloomy, but the food is fresh, tasty and inexpensive. Self-service, buffet style; no menu. 23-3 Hemu Rd. (
Tel: (03) 935-8169
13 Budget hotels (價格合理的旅舍)
There are three or four reasonably priced hotels on Kuangfu Road, but those off the main road are probably quieter. Start your search in the streets and lanes around Hemu Road, Kangle Street and Hsinmin Road (光復路、和睦路、康樂街、新民路).
14 Central Pool Hall (中央撞球運動館)
Air-conditioned, well-maintained but somewhat cramped, this pool hall is extremely popular on weekends, when you should expect to wait for a table. Patrons are allowed to bring in their own food and drink. 47 Hemu Rd. (
15 Long Distance Bus Station (往台北、基隆、蘇澳公車站)
Buses to Taipei, Keelung and Suao are frequent, but services to mountain resorts such as Taipingshan or Lishan on the Central Cross-Island Highway are limited to one or two a day. Calling ahead to check departure times is recommended. Ihsing Road, five minutes walk south of the train station (宜興路). Tel: (03) 936-5441
16 Europe Entertainment Tower (歐洲歡樂城)
Architecturally this castle-like edifice owes more to Disneyland than anything in Europe. A McDonald's outlet shares the first floor with a computer game arcade popular with elementary-age youngsters and teenagers. There's an MTV/KTV/karaoke joint on the second floor, a steakhouse on the third and an under-utilized bowling alley on the fourth. 49 Hsinhsing Rd. (新興路49號).
17 Yuan Wey Dried Fruits Store (原味宜蘭名產)
The extremely friendly and helpful workers encourage you to sample some of the fruits before buying. In addition to gift boxes of mango, guava and plums, there are various teas, bottles of starfruit liquor, duck steaks and dried cow's tongue! In the unlikely event of not being able to find what you want here, try the numerous dried-goods shops on Kuangfu Rd. This store also rents out scooters. 8 Hsinhsing Rd. (新興路8號). Tel: (03) 936-5875;
http:www.ilan.com.tw/yuan-wey/
18 E-Century Internet Cafe (網路e世紀)
Owned by the same boss as the nearby Yuan Wey Dried Fruits Store, this clean and cozy establishment boasts new computers and complimentary drinks. Web access costs NT$60/hour, except between 3am and 10am, when the rate is reduced to NT$39/hour. Some hot food available; open 24 hours. 14 Hsinhsing Rd. (新興路14號). Tel: (03) 936-4228
19 La Rive Gauche (左岸餐廳)
Quality Chinese/Western restaurant and coffee shop, open 24 hours. (See review at left.) 46 Hsinhsing Rd. (新興路46號). Tel: (03) 931-5877
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