Fri, Oct 20, 2000 - Page 10 News List

Warm up to the Great White North

Everyone Know British Columbia has clean air, dramatic scenery and a diverse culture. But Canada's warmest province also has superb food now on offer at the Grand Formosa Regent

By Ernesto Brawand  /  SPECIAL CONTRIBUTOR

Rare Ahi Tuna in foregound and rack of lamb in background. These dishes and many more will be on offer at the Formosa Regent until Sunday.

PHOTO: COURTESY OF GRAND FORMOSA REGENT HOTEL

One of the major misconceptions about Canada is the climate. The reality is that British Columbia is the region of Canada which enjoys the mildest temperature all year round. It is also the closest Canadian province to Taiwan. So, it is no surprise that Vancouver is the ideal landing spot for tourists and immigrants alike.

If you can't make it there anytime soon, BC and Canada are coming to you until Sunday at the Grand Formosa Regent in downtown Taipei. As usual, the affair focuses mostly on food, but musical entertainment and art are broadening the event.

The meals are being served in the Brasserie (buffet), the Court (a la carte menu), the Steak House and the Teppenyaki (set lunch and set dinner) under the expert supervision of Paul Marshall, guest chef from the Fairmont Hotel in Vancouver. As for the kitchen brigade of the Grand Formosa Regent, their versatility must be acknowledged. After all, they were cooking Irish specialties no later than two weeks ago and in mid November, classical French dishes will enhance the launching of the Beaujolais Nouveau. One could argue that the basics of cooking are almost the same, the difficulty being to reproduce in a different setting the original flavors of a specific dish or region.

GIFTED IN MANY WAYS

"We are very lucky in BC," says Marshall. whose objectivity cannot be denied. British, trained in London, he worked in Holland and Switzerland before landing in Canada.

"Working with first class raw materials is what matters the most, and we are getting everything fresh," says Marshall. "There is this guy from Okanagen who makes an eight-hour drive to supply the Fairmont Hotel with the finest vegetables. Buying from him is like going shopping for Xmas". The windfall is not limited to the greens: seafood from salty and fresh waters is plentiful. And for meat lovers, Marshall suggests visitors to Vancouver check out a new place called Morten's, located downtown, which offers 16 ounce steaks.

As for the taste and presentation, there has been in the past 20 years an evolution or, perhaps, a revolution in the art. "Long ago, European chefs were training our people. Everyone was sort of working on their own. The Italians, on one side, the Germans and the Swiss on the other and more south the Portuguese," says Marshall. "Now that everyone has realized that diversity is a must, they are borrowing a bit from each other. In BC it is even better because like in California we have this strong influence from the East".

MULTICULTURAL

Cooking made in Canada has become as cosmopolitan as its inhabitants. The proof is in some of the dishes concocted by Marshall.

As appetizer, try the pan-seared Atlantic Digby Scallops. The scallops are slightly pan-fried and served with a beurre blanc flavored with caramelized lemon peels. A clear mushroom soup made the old fashion way through clarification, a complex operation compared to the way Chinese chefs are producing soups, is also served, garnished with cured snow crab. The grilled Ahi tuna for the main course is a light, grilled rare fish, sitting on a risotto of pearl barley underneath a portabello mushroom cap, surrounded by a red bell pepper sauce. Don't miss the dessert, and go for the warm chocolate cake with Grand Marnier center. Little flour is used in order to leave the chocolate flavors intact.

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