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Restaurants of the week

By Steven Crook
Friday, Jul 07, 2000, Page 10

Savor's Vegetarian (菜根香素食館)
23 Minsheng 1st Rd. (民生一路23號); TEL:(07)227-3333. 11am to 9pm. Average meal: NT$250. Credit cards not accepted. English menu.

You might never guess it from the forbiddingly formal exterior, but Savor's Vegetarian Restaurant offers unusual, superbly prepared and reasonably priced food for individual diners as well as groups.

A great deal of Taiwanese vegetarian fare is crafted to resemble the meat dishes devout Buddhists are required to forsake. The menu at Savor's subscribes to this masquerade - there are "pork," "chicken," "duck" and "ham" dishes, plus a broad range of pseudo-seafoods (shark's fin, eel, grouper). But in terms of taste or appearance, the chefs do not attempt to hide the natural charms of the vegetables they use. Savor's cooking is thus a treat for those who eat vegetarian food simply because they like it.

What are called Plum Spring Rolls are actually savory delights, and the Sweet and Sour Ribs come awash in peppers, mushrooms and pineapples. There's a choice of soups (the most alluringly named being Bamboo Pith and Spiritual Mushroom) or hot-plate dishes suitable for winter days.

The desserts are enchantingly innovative - one of the best being sweet vegetables baked in their own juices, then coated with molten cheese.

Refreshingly, instead of the soothing-yet-soporific Buddhist chants played in most vegetarian establishments, Savor's regales it's customers with light jazz.

All budgets are catered for: Fried rice or noodle dishes can be had for as little as NT$60, but it's well worth going with a couple of friends, digging deep into your pockets, and ordering a dozen or more dishes. By the final mouthful, you'll be looking forward to your next trip to Savor's.

Mamamia (瑪瑪米亞)
186 Jungjeng 2nd Rd. (中正二路186號); TEL:(07) 222-5627. 11am to 1:30am. Average meal: NT$500. Credit cards accepted. English menu.

Mamamia's managers are strangely reluctant to answer questions about the training of their entirely Taiwanese kitchen staff - fearing, perhaps, that the information would be of use to competitors - but there's no doubting the authenticity of the Italian food on offer here.

This perennially crowded establishment - quite different to other outlets in the locally-owned Amy's chain of bar/restaurants - has won a loyal following among both expatriates and local gourmands. The interior more closely resembles a TGI Friday's or a Dan Ryan's than a traditional trattoria and bustles with efficient, English-speaking staff.

Perhaps the single most popular dish is the calzone - a pizza folded over with meat, vegetables, gravy and cheese inside. This treat often sells out early in the evening; diners are advised to specify their needs when making reservations.

Regulars favor the traditional meat-sauce spaghettis over the more ambitious seafood concoctions, or the business lunches (costing around NT$200) which include soup, main course, dessert and a coffee.

The selection of wines is unusually broad (the cellar, if one can call it that, is located at the front of the restaurant, visible as you walk in), and there's a well-stocked bar for those who need to wait for a free table.

Hongcheng Thailand Restaurant (紅城泰緬餐廳)
8-10, Lane 4, Mintzu 2nd Rd. (民族二路四巷8-10號); TEL:(07) 224-9603. 11:30am to 2pm; 5pm to 9pm. Average meal: NT$300. Credit cards not accepted. English menu.

By the standards of Thai restaurants in Taiwan - many of which are cluttered with Buddha statues, potted plants and photos of Bangkok's temples - the decor of the Hongcheng is restrained, half-hearted almost. There are a few pictures of kick-boxers and some Thai embroidery on the walls, but that's about it. The proprietors have - very wisely - chosen to concentrate on the quality of the food.

Staffed by a mix of laidback Kaohsiung natives and friendly overseas Chinese from Myanmar, the Hongcheng's off-street location means walk-in customers are few. Word-of-mouth is a major factor of the restaurant's success.

Several Burmese dishes are available, but it is the Thai food that wins plaudits - and repeat customers. The curries are pleasantly mild, allowing one to enjoy the succulence of the meat and the delicate slices of vegetables.

Those who like their Southeast Asian cuisine fiery need not leave Hongcheng disappointed, however. Some of the soups are incendiary; the spring rolls have a surprising kick; and customers can ask for their orders to be made extra spicy. Seldom overwhelmed with guests, the staff are able to offer attentive, friendly service.
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