Restaurant of the week: Rossini (羅西尼廚房)

By Max Woodworth
STAFF
Friday, Nov 23, 2001, Page 10

Do not pass up Rossini's seafood soup. PHOTO: MAX WOODWORTH, TAIPEI TIMES.

There is no shortage of French restaurants in Taipei now, but few offer full meals for as little as Rossini. A three-course set lunch at this new eatery, for example, costs as little as NT$180.

Though there are several similarly low-priced set meals on both the lunch and dinner menus, diners with change to spare may opt for the more elaborate dishes and set meals, which are distinctly more expensive. However much money one chooses to spend, the food will be exceptional.

No meal at Rossini would be complete without tasting the delicious homemade pate (NT$650 per plate), made with duck, pork and rabbit, as an appetizer. Far too many restaurants ruin this uniquely French specialty by offering it with second-rate bread, but Rossini's is light, slightly salty instead of sweet, and wonderfully textured. Another fine appetizer is the seafood soup (NT$180), made with a tomato base and loaded with crab meat, mussels and clams. For something more classically French, try the onion soup (NT$150).

According to manager Ruan Yi-fan (阮一凡), Rossini sets itself apart from other French restaurants with its specialty main dishes, some of which call for an adventurous spirit on the part of the diner. The duck breast with blueberry sauce (NT$550) is an uncommon mix of fruity and salty flavors. (Anyone who can't find turkey and cranberry sauce in this Thanksgiving season might choose this as a replacement.) The veal with porcini mushrooms (NT$500), while on the heavy side, is delightful with hearty mushroom portions. Even richer than the veal is the house specialty, Rossini steak (NT$850), which comes with a heart-stopping, thick mushroom sauce.

Rossini is also a good spot to enjoy some excellent wines. The oldest vintage available is a 1949 Chateau Branaire (NT$8,800), which Ruan describes as "quite drinkable." There are other surprises on the wine menu, like a 1981 Tokay, which is perfect as a digestif after what will surely have been a heavy meal. Chilean wines are offered by the glass (NT$120) or bottle.

French restaurants typically aim for the rustic, countryside look, but Rossini has gone the other direction, choosing a Japanese-style slick, modern interior with dark wood paneling, shiny marble floors and intricate lighting. The effect is more that of a yuppie cocktail bar than a restaurant, and may be a turn-off for those hoping for a cozy dining setting. But if the decor leaves you cold, the food should more than make up for it.